Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.pbase.com/crimmo/skyline r30 in its japness... car was completely stock grandma spec when he first got it

its hot!

i dont like 31s but ill say ti again... yours that low... looks hot!

id bring it back down again... my cef is that low - ive only raised it 10mm as my gf complains as shes using it as her daily atm

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

http://www.pbase.com/crimmo/skyline r30 in its japness... car was completely stock grandma spec when he first got it

its hot!

i dont like 31s but ill say ti again... yours that low... looks hot!

id bring it back down again... my cef is that low - ive only raised it 10mm as my gf complains as shes using it as her daily atm

Cool 30. What front bar is that?

Hehe I couldn't get it up/down the driveway where I was working on it. I only raised it bout 30-40m. I think having 100mm from the ground on a street car is good for me. I don't want to get stuck on a speed hump :)

I'll post up a couple of pics and see how it goes.

you have to block them!

Hey just a quick clarification - someone in my other thread said they don't need to be plugged... possibly cos they go to the rear and so they aren't connected to the same 'circuit' as the PS pump.......... are you sure they need to be plugged? I don't have a welder that's all so if they don't then it makes my life easier.... where do they actually go?

Ok. Installed my r32 rack over the weekend - what a pain in the ass.

I also figured since I was playing with the rack I'd put in an alloy spacer (thanks NV). My old one was so sloppy I could move side to side when I grabbed the steering shaft by about 15mm O_o

Pictured is the whole r32 setup. I only used the r32 steering shaft from the spacer down to the rack (including the r32 uni joint).

I had a bag with the tie rod ends etc that were sold to me (thanks DIF) with the steering rack.. Of course I lost it so I started the job without them.

IMG_6560.jpg

Cut the power steering lines.

IMG_6561.jpg

Took the old rack out, which was easier than I thought but still pretty time consuming. It's a pain getting in to undo the driverside front bolt holding it in :|

Before I put the new one in I had to block it up… I don't have a TIG and the damn stuff is aluminium. The thought of threading it didn’t seem like a good idea at the time so I got some O-rings and made a plate up.

My plate.. Looks like a ghost face :happy:

IMG_6562.jpg

O-rings

IMG_6563.jpg

Fitted

IMG_6564_jpg.jpeg

And of course as you know it after spending 1.5hrs getting the plate right and a few hours later when it was all in, I start looking for the bag with the tie rod ends etc etc. Luckily my gf's brother finds it and not only is it a box (not a bag), but contains another uni, tie rod ends and…… the proper Nissan thingy that sits on the rack!... I didn't need the plate afterall.. :happy:

All done from underneath… there were 2 wires sticking out of the back of the thingy so I stripped them and added bullet connectors before it went on the rack to make it easier for myself incase I ever need to plug it up. Does anyone know what the hell the thingy is? I've read that it's measures angle of steering, if so why and what for? I know my cef had a plug that kept the engine revs stable while getting power assistance from the rack, the rb30 in the r31 doesn't seem to care though??

IMG_6567_jpg.jpeg

Banjos up close.

IMG_6568_jpg.jpeg

I'm not afraid to say it took another 2 goes before it was right, first time round it pissed out all the fluid because one of the o-rings had fallen out :( .. The second time it was because I hadn't tightened one of the banjos enough (damn curved copper washers) and one of the lines on the rack weren't done up tight… I should have checked but really I was happy to have it finished.

When I took it for a test drive the steering was really heavy and kind of unresponsive. I can accept the unresponsiveness because it needs a wheel alignment, fair enough (it even has more lock one way than the other.. Haha). … what I'm worried about though is why it's so heavy for steering?

- It's got fluid - at one point it overflowed a little from the reservoir when I tightened one of the banjos up.

- Could it have air in it?

- Could it be because my custom lines have too larger ID (hence losing pressure?)

- Would this happen if I had gotten the IN/OUT lines the wrong way round (I matched the large line with the larger banjo hole and so on)?

Any help appreciated :)

Well it's answered here.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...06128#msg606128

and

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160188

Looks like I should have continued to use the plate, I double owned myself O_o

I might go for an electric solution and use a variable resistor to see if I can regulate it. I'm just not sure it's a good idea....

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Halo.

Update is this week I haven't done shit because I've had to buy 2 new bolts to hold the tie rod ends in place and I couldn't be bothered fitting them. Still needs a wheel alignment and pink slip which I'll hopefully get done during the week...

  • 2 months later...

Anyway so I don't have a job or time for car related stuff at the moment so project is sloooooow. Should have been long finished by now but what can you do hah.

When I have time I will be installing things already purchased for the car. Tried to put in a (semi) proper racing seat today and found out that r32 rails don't fit r31. Some clown told me 3/4 bolts do.... Anyways then I started with the angle grinder.

hole_in_bonnet.jpg

Ended up with this (trial fitted)

vent_in_bonnet.jpg

When I get a chance I'll putty it up and spray the damn thing properly. Also reinforce the thing where the reo was taken out. ... Looks pretty ghetto but I'm hoping along with some fibreglass air deflectors under the hood from the rad it's the low cost cooling mod once I get to the track.

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update, hectic busy... Muffler fell off a while ago, the pipe sounds nice. Will obviously go to 3" when it gets turboed but for now...

20062007244.jpg

20062007245.jpg

I can't take the credit I bought the stuffs and only did some of the welds but the skills lay with the man known as GI JAKE ;):)

20062007243.jpg

Not on the car yet, didn't have time to fit it on.... spacers and initial bodywork next I think IF I can get a place to work on it (nowhere at the moment :) ).

  • 2 months later...

Okay -update. I got defected a few months back.

My mechanic said it's a major so it'll have to get put back to stock but THEN it'll go through pits. It obviously can't pass pits with s13 suspension conversion or r32 steering rack, so even if I had the stock parts it's just not possible. I can't afford engineering.

So basically I have to give it up. Sad but true... all on a whim of a copper.

I'll be selling it as a package, since it's still drivable and perfectly okay to be re-registered if you have the connections or patience. It's a good body that was STOCK as and treated well when I got it.

- HSD coilovers 8/6k I think. (not more than 30k). (I bought from REPLICATE who I used to work with, I remember he bought them for his ceffy and I've driven less than 100km on them).

- r32 steering rack (great condition, checked it before putting it in)

- S13 coilover conversion (lower control arms, brakes, brake lines etc)

- custom lines for r32 rack (cost me just under $300!)

- hole in bonnet (comes with the kind of east bear-ish reverse scoop)

- Modena Japanese 3 piece rims in absolute mint condition (16x7 and 16x8 for that old school toughness, includes all pins/caps etc)

- Tyres that aren't shagged

- Short shift kit

- Stripped interior (rear seatbelts still in)

- Apex pod filter

- r32 FMIC kit (including FMIC which is already mounted)

- VLT stainless ebay exhaust manifold

- "glue on" flares (fatness)

- option of 40mm spacers (which were machined to fit the wheels and nissan hubs, will match these flares)

- import rear garnish (installed!)

- garden edge

- full sick drift styled mild steel tipped exhaust (needs a hanger welded on)

I know I'm going to lose money on it etc but I can't register it.. I don't have the money to buy any parts or pay engineering otherwise I would! If noone takes it whole I will spend a few days taking it apart and part it out. If anyone wants to make an offer PM me or call 0410 532 548.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
×
×
  • Create New...