Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently had a pfc installed and tuned by hyperdrive on a 33 gtst.

All seems to be well but i have noticed that occasionally the knock seems to jump to excessivley high readings. It would generally jump to a maximum of about 70 and my mechanic told me it is probably because i need to install an aftermarket fuel pump.

The issue im still concerned about is that the other night i gave it a bit of full throttle action in 3rd gear on the freeway and had a knock of 122 (running 13psi)

the values are as fallows:

speed: 107

ign: 43 (maximum value on pfc so i dont know if its the value at time of knock)

airflow: 4690

rpm: 4844

inj: 68.7%

knock: 122

temp: 81

From using the search button ive found it could either be a faulty knock sensor or poor tuning, or is this still in relation to needing to upgrade the fuel pump, even though the inj duty is 68.7%?

any help is appreciated coz i like my engine in one piece!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124840-3rd-gear-knock/
Share on other sites

Hmm, If I were you I'd go to a dyno and get some A/F readings.

Could be running lean, which isn't good. Now that might be because of a dud fuel pump, or the tuning (seeing as the inj duty is only at 68.7%).

Can't tell really unless you get some A/F readings, and even then it could be the tune, or not enough fuel pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124840-3rd-gear-knock/#findComment-2304585
Share on other sites

if you wanna try and fix it yourself you can give it a shot, its fairly easy, the powerfc faq in my signature tells you how to do this.

also you should have a GTR pump ideally around 180rwkw ish in an r33.

also 13psi is pointless and just adding extra heat, drop it to near 12

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124840-3rd-gear-knock/#findComment-2304652
Share on other sites

Hey there mate my name is Aaron and i am in the process of opening the doors of my new business In Tune Performance and Engineering which will be located in Oconnor Western Australia and will be opening on approximately the 17th of this month. From my experience a fuel pressure and fuel flow test needs to be carried out and probably a replacement fuel pump upgrade will need to be carried out. I don't believe that there would be a tuning issue such as has been noted. Hyperdrive would not have let the vehicle leave with a knock reading of 122. Something else has happened since the vehicle was tuned there. If the vehicle needs a new fuel pump i would recommend an adjustable fuel pressure regulator be fitted at the same time (not a Malpassi) as the vehicle will need to be re-tuned once these mods have been done. I also agree with one of the other posts recommending that the boost be dropped to approximately 12 psi if you are still using the std intercooler otherwise 13 psi will be ok if you are running an aftermarket front mount. My business will be providing a full dyno tuning service and i specialise in Motec, Haltech, Microtech, Autronics, Power FC, and Xede as well as most other systems on the market. Feel free to call anytime for advice or service on 0414874824.

Good luck with your project.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124840-3rd-gear-knock/#findComment-2304763
Share on other sites

thanks for all your suggestions i will look into them

if you wanna try and fix it yourself you can give it a shot, its fairly easy, the powerfc faq in my signature tells you how to do this.

also you should have a GTR pump ideally around 180rwkw ish in an r33.

also 13psi is pointless and just adding extra heat, drop it to near 12

I will have a look over the next few days at trying to fix the problem myself.

I am a little worried that a knock at that level might kill my engine if i get it wrong so ill read through and take it easy :D

Im also looking at buying a bosch 044 pump, would it be worth installing the pump before i go ahead and try to fix any problems?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124840-3rd-gear-knock/#findComment-2308085
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...