Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Window Has Fallen Into The Door

stingray
 Share

Recommended Posts

stingray Collaborator

stingray

Posted
Posted

My window on the R32 fell down inside the door and now won't wind back up. Just when I closed it today it made a lound clunk noise and I went to open it again. That's when it just slid down. It doesn't sound like it's rattling or anything so I don't know if it's fallen of its tracks or something else. I will be taking the door apart tomorrow and removing the sound deadening to have a look. I just want to know what the general problem could be as I don't really know how the window mechanism operates.

stingray Collaborator

stingray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone know how to remove the assembly. I've taken the 4 bolts of and tried lifting the whole thing out including the window, but there's not enough clearance at the top for it to come out. Do I need to remove the window first? I've attacted a picture of the 4 botls that I took off.

post-3291-1152070276.jpg

  • 4 years later...
bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted (edited)

on another note, does anyone know if it's possible to get the window to go back up and stay up? (given that it will probably take at least 2 days to get a new assembly sent here if it's the cause)

Edited by bozodos
.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

pillars.. maybe to the roof.. unless you wanted to jam a block underneath? maybe more difficult though.. Just do the bogan thing.. plastic and tape around the outside..

  • 2 weeks later...
bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

FFS. new assembly has arrived, and went in fine, however I was foolishly trying to do the locating nuts up as tight as they were beforehand and one snapped off. The other snapped off taking it off.

Low quality pics show what I mean here, the red circle is the head of the nut which has snapped off. Is it possible to get these re threaded in some way or am I just going to have to get a new window. fml

09272010024.jpg

09272010025.jpg

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

1. You have a red square, and blue circles.. i am going to assume the red square (not circle) is the head of the bolt/threaded bar and the blue circles are where they snapped..

what is on the other side of the threaded bar, or did you screw the threaded bar in? if so i would look at drilling a hole in the middle of the threaded bar and using a screw extractor kit to get it out and replace it..

is that what you are looking to do? pics are pretty bad..

bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted (edited)

pretty much, and yeah after i'd uploaded them to my computer noticed that i had gunk on my phone camera lens.

there is a flat side like a rivet on the other side of the threads, going to look at just getting another window before the thread replacement option. my inital reaction was FFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU. I figured that I am probably not the first person to do this, but wasn't sure if it was one of those kind of things which are set into the glass at the factory while it is still hot etc. My failure was in attempting to tighten them up to the point as they were when I took the window out.

Spose that will teach me to tighten things up too fkn much.

Edited by bozodos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...