Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys,

I'm in need of a fibreglass spoiler to be painted (the little "drift/stealth" spoiler for R33's).

How much should I be looking at?

and, can anyone recommend a place?

I don't need it fitted, just painted. Also I've just been quoted $300 for painting only! Help!

Cheers,

wil..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124951-where-to-get-a-spoiler-painted/
Share on other sites

Wil Try Sydney Central Panel beaters.....they are in redfern.

They did the respray for Richards car (Beer Baron) and the paint job is immaculate. They were also quite competitive in pricing when I got a quote for my car and will most probably be taking my car to them...and you know how anal I am with my car (metaphor) :(

PM him for details :D

yeah like my little buddy shonen says sydney central are very good. I've taken heaps of work there in the last two years (various cars including the recent GTR respray). Speak to Tony or Josh. tell them I sent you down there. they are 156 regent st, 9319 6044. take lots of pride in their work too. Josh the spraypainter there has a GT falcon replica which he built from scratch and is just awesome looking.

Any normal smash repairer will do it for around $100. That is not a cheap price even. not mates rates no nothing.

If you know the right people, like maybe some of those mentioned above, you can get it cheaper and better.

I reversed my parent's car into a bin that was just under the height of the bootlid so I couldn't see it. But I cracked the spoiler. Bought one from the wreckers and got it painted so I wouldn't get nagged by my parents.

Walked up to hornsby smash repairs - 100. Absolute smash repairs - 110$.

I got hornsby smash to do it. I wasn't expecting a goodd job, just your average daily driver sort of repair job. But suprisingly, it was perfect, good as factory and I am very picky.

If you were seriously contemplating doing it yourself, get a spray can, and try and spray an old computer case or something and see how shit it looks. Then you'll never try and spray something with a can ever again. :D

Or you could do what I did with an old panelvan I had.

Buy some Heritage Green Interior/Exterior Gloss.

Borrow air compressor and crappy paint gun.

Wind down the windows.

Cut sick.

I even opened the bonnet and did the engine bay too, and the engine, the battery, even the water bottle I used to top up the leaky radiator. Oh and the wheels - tried not to get too much on the tyres.

Man that was one green car.

Any normal smash repairer will do it for around $100. That is not a cheap price even. not mates rates no nothing.

If you know the right people, like maybe some of those mentioned above, you can get it cheaper and better.

I reversed my parent's car into a bin that was just under the height of the bootlid so I couldn't see it. But I cracked the spoiler. Bought one from the wreckers and got it painted so I wouldn't get nagged by my parents.

Walked up to hornsby smash repairs - 100. Absolute smash repairs - 110$.

I got hornsby smash to do it. I wasn't expecting a goodd job, just your average daily driver sort of repair job. But suprisingly, it was perfect, good as factory and I am very picky.

Agreed, in my experience smash repairers have always been cheaper & the right one's do an excellent job.

Two years ago I was shopping around to get my s2 wing painted & fitted & getting price quotes avg. $300-$350. One even tried to charge me $500+!

I went to Medicar smash repair in St. Marys & they cost me $180 to paint & fit, the guy was looking at me like he was feeling guilty of overcharging me, but it was the cheapest price I found! They did an awesome job & since then I've been back to get my whole bodykit painted, you can't tell the difference between where they painted & the factory paint job :D they do an excellent job & I highly recommend them for anyone who just wants to get stuff painted.

Seriously, if it's just to paint a stealth wing have a look around at your local smash repairers/panel beaters & shop around till you find a place you're happy with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...