Jump to content
SAU Community

Stripped Wheel Studs On My R33

Bunta

By Bunta,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

Fate has forced my hand! The R32 just blew its turbo so R33 wheel studs need to be fixed so I can drive it while the R32 gets its upgrades done!

Does anyone have any useful advice for me on how to do this?? Or does anyone want to come and help me do it on Saturday afternoon? Rewards of course will be offered for the helpers :D Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125048-stripped-wheel-studs-on-my-r33/
Share on other sites
AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

1. Take wheel off

2. Take caliper off disc

3. take disc off

4. get big hammer

5. belt old stud out

6. slide new stud in from behind

7. use old stripped stud as a punch to push new stud in (or alternatively get a rattle gun and do up a wheel nut onto the new stud to pull it through)

8. put disc back on

9. put caliper back on disc

10. put wheel back on

11. ????

12. Profit

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
Where do I buy the new studs from??

Jason there is alcoholic rewards if you come help me :D

try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted
try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

impact_blue Grand Master

impact_blue

Posted
Posted
Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Oh dears! I was wondering what you were gonna do! I felt so bad for ya too, you were having an awesome run!

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey Andy,

You got my number, gimmie a call if you need a hand. I am but 5 mins from your house.

Thanks mate ;)

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :)

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

Thanks mate! ill give you a call later in the week??

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted
I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :D

Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! ;)

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! :)

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! :D

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! ;)

I knew at the time that it needed doing...I just didnt know that is what you were up too!!!!

we can have "comparisons" at EC in October Woooooot

WiZardOz Collaborator

WiZardOz

Posted
Posted

if you need to know details of the studs that are required check out the www.niceproducts.com.au website - all the info you need is there

I am having mine replaced, but the biggest problem has been finding wheel nuts to suit my mags ..

A workshop told me it's only a 20 minute job to preplace all studs to both rear wheels .. sounds like the easy option to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...