Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe we need one of those polls?

Those UK guys are mostly selecting 15W oils? Its a cold country, wouldn't they need the W viscosity to beas low as possible??

Theres more articles on Oil Viscosity too

http://auto.indiamart.com/auto-consumables...-viscosity.html

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm (Theres too much info here, seriously)

That second article says that W stands for Winter? and not Weight!

yes, oils reccomended in the UK is of little relevance here to our conditions. nismo boy, i would reccomend Motul 8100 10W40 for your 100K RB20DET.

Did you check the link? I find it interesting the commonly used visc is quite thick for such cold conditions where people are carking it left right and centre from their <30degree summer heat waves. lol

yes, oils reccomended in the UK is of little relevance here to our conditions. nismo boy, i would reccomend Motul 8100 10W40 for your 100K RB20DET.

how can you say that the only difference between here and there is cold start after that the temp and condition the oil see are identical as both motors (here and US) will run at ~80deg and hp is hp no matter where you make it. The fact that even in cold countries like japan and england they run thicker oil was an eye opener and the fact the NISMO in japan recommend a 1060w was very interesting. As i think NISMO know how to build and run high performance motor.

pete

I dont think a standard engine running without an oil cooler is going to run the same oil temp with -5degrees ambient as it will with 40 degrees ambient. I could be wrong. Nismo reccomend their own brand of oil (of course) 10W60 for a GTR getting some track use I'm not aware of what they reccomend for an RB20DET. Nismo didn't build the RB20DET, nissan did and they reccomend a 7.5W30. Now given it's no longer anywhere near new I would say a 10W40 is a good choice. The wider the spread between the first number and second means the oil must contain a lot of additives. I'm no oil expert but I understand enough to know that that is not a good thing. I have used 10W60 without problem, but unless you are driving on track without an oil cooler (or on road getting very high temp) a 60 is not needed. It's just my opion though so no need to go nuts with the sarcasm about nismo knowing how to build a motor. Of course they do, and I've been to nismo omori factory in japan to see it with my own eyes. and like most companies they push their own product.

I dont think a standard engine running without an oil cooler is going to run the same oil temp with -5degrees ambient as it will with 40 degrees ambient. I could be wrong. Nismo reccomend their own brand of oil (of course) 10W60 for a GTR getting some track use I'm not aware of what they reccomend for an RB20DET. Nismo didn't build the RB20DET, nissan did and they reccomend a 7.5W30. Now given it's no longer anywhere near new I would say a 10W40 is a good choice. The wider the spread between the first number and second means the oil must contain a lot of additives. I'm no oil expert but I understand enough to know that that is not a good thing. I have used 10W60 without problem, but unless you are driving on track without an oil cooler (or on road getting very high temp) a 60 is not needed. It's just my opion though so no need to go nuts with the sarcasm about nismo knowing how to build a motor. Of course they do, and I've been to nismo omori factory in japan to see it with my own eyes. and like most companies they push their own product.

beer baron i think you should have a read of the uk thread as the guy OILMAN knowledge of oils is like Sydneykids knowledge of rb30's

the nissan oil is recommend for a std engine and road use

the nismo would be aimed a performance evironment and is more revalent to most uses in referrence to the weights used.

I would just say the imformation is of no use to us as the outside temp is slighty colder as the motors temp are all the same (thermostat control the major part of operating temp and 5 to 10deg outside temp will have little bearing on the oil)

Do remember the 7.5w30 is decided upon for power levels and economy reasons. When upping the power one really should also improve the film strength, higher visc and synth oils do this.

yes, hence the 10W40. :(

Hi Cubes , an interesting read . I'll have to do a search on Silkoline oils as its not one I'm familiar with . I know Just Jap sell Motul but not sure if its commonly available everywhere . It sounds like we could use a list of REAL synthetic engine oils so as not to get fudged by the marketing mongrels and their shh - its really mineral oil with 11 more herbs and spices ...

The Charade research octane lump has a gut full of 10-40 (I think) Magnatek because I always wanted to try something less viscous than 20W50 particularly in the winter . It is better for cold starts (rattles stop sooner) and no longer feels like its towing the car behind when I take off at 3 in the morning .

Sigh - I had thought that Castrol "synthetic" 10-60 was a real synthetic but that "Oilman" doesn't seem to think so or do I have that wrong ?

Actually I've been wondering a lot of late if lower viscosity oils with good "shear strength" can be used maybe we can run cooler thermostats to keep chamber / valve / bore / ring / piston temps down far enough to hold off detonation / allow a bit more advance under load .

Food for though cheers A .

There's quite a few oils available here in Adelaide

Apart from the usual there's:

ELF Synthetic

Nulon Synthetic :S

Fuchs (makers of Sikoline)

Might have to look in to the Sikoline stuff and see what its worth.

I really only want to pay $50 for 5ltrs, so really what ever fits the bill.

At the moment its Motul 8100 5w40 which is nice but I would prefer an oil with a little higher HTHS.

I'm almost tempted to see how the Mobil 1 15w50 runs as the running-in oil was fine (20w50) and I don't see temps below 10degree's so it should be fine. :)

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lub...il_1_15W-50.asp

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...60_B1968_05.pdf

guys i have found my local Repco store sells the Motul 300v 15-50 100%ester oil for around $94 per 5 litres, so that will be my next oil to try in the GTR as its time for a synthetic (run in period complete).

Are you sure 5ltrs?

Motul 300v only comes in 4 and 2ltr bottles. So you must buy 6litres for a service one time then only 4 another.

Are you sure 5ltrs?

Motul 300v only comes in 4 and 2ltr bottles. So you must buy 6litres for a service one time then only 4 another.

LOL you know i didn't even look to close at volume marking i just read the label and details on the oil to confirm it was the stuff the oilman(ukgtr forum) was talking about as i wasnt there to buy it ( at Repco) was helping a friend with the bosch part numbers for the z32afm and plug when i notice the motul.

And i will need more than a 2 and 4 litre bottle as my GTR run like 9 plus litres now with custom sump and oil cooler, so oil changes won't be cheap but if it looks after the internals it will be well worth it, as forged internals, nismo bearing and the works dont come cheap so it would be silly to skip on the oil.

Anyone running the 300v 15w50 in oz? thoughts etc?

pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...