Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got wide front fenders on my gtr,

i need to run 30mm wide spacers to make my 17x9+21off wheels to fit the gap

my question is

what are the disadvantage of running such a huge spacers in the front ?

i'll be running one with a longer stud.

will the hub wear out? will i get slow steering responds ?

This moves the tyre contact patch outwards 30 mm, which means;

Tramlining, pretty bad I would say

Premature wheel bearing wear

Heavy steering

Hence steering linkage wear

And steering rack wear

Premature tyre wear

Increased loading on the radius rods due to the increased leverage

Leading to increase radius rod bush wear

Or if you have spherical bearings with adjustable radius rods, perhaps bearing failure

Premature wear of the upper inner and outer conrol arm bushes

Premature wear of the lower inner control arm bush

Premature wear of the lower outer ball joint

That's about it for a start.

:D cheers :yes:

PS; with the power output your engine is going to have, the tramlining will be extreme

This moves the tyre contact patch outwards 30 mm, which means;

Tramlining, pretty bad I would say

Premature wheel bearing wear

Heavy steering

Hence steering linkage wear

And steering rack wear

Premature tyre wear

Increased loading on the radius rods due to the increased leverage

Leading to increase radius rod bush wear

Or if you have spherical bearings with adjustable radius rods, perhaps bearing failure

Premature wear of the upper inner and outer conrol arm bushes

Premature wear of the lower inner control arm bush

Premature wear of the lower outer ball joint

That's about it for a start.

:) cheers :D

PS; with the power output your engine is going to have, the tramlining will be extreme

how would these things not happen if the offset of the wheels were 0 and stuck out further? Or would then happen regardless in puttng a wider wheel with lower offset on the front

sydneykid, that's quite interesting what you said above. I was just wondering whether the same applies to using a different offset wheel too?

e.g. stock r32 gtr wheels are 16x8 +30. If I ran a 16x8 0 offset, that effectively brings the wheels out 3 cm right?

Will this have the same effect?

Tramlining, pretty bad I would say

The car might tramline, but at least it won't look like a Tram with wheels hidden under the guards :)

As for the other questions, are you guys seriously asking if a wheel with a certain offset is different to

a wheel spacer combo with the same offset?

If one person is 6 foot in high heels and one is six feet with bare feet will they both hit their head on a 5'10 doorway?

Edited by Laurence
sydneykid, that's quite interesting what you said above. I was just wondering whether the same applies to using a different offset wheel too?

e.g. stock r32 gtr wheels are 16x8 +30. If I ran a 16x8 0 offset, that effectively brings the wheels out 3 cm right?

Will this have the same effect?

It is the same thing. Adding wheel spacers effectively changes the wheel offset.

Legend has it that GT-R's don't really like having this sort of thing done to them...

Edited by djr81
The car might tramline, but at least it won't look like a Tram with wheels hidden under the guards :O

Spacers aren't the answer, skinny front wheels hanging out side the rear track looks almost as bad.

A better answer is 10.5" wide wheels with 0 offset, making them 21 mm further out and 17 mm further in.

That will give a barely discernable increase in tramlining.

You will need to do a little inner guard tweaking, nothing major.

Obviously that's all round, so will need to match the rear guards with the front.

:O cheers :O

Edited by Sydneykid
I got mine custom for $70 :nyaanyaa:

I think I got a catalogue at work that has them in there from some Victorian Company that makes them and other car accessories. and they are in there for about $130 for a pair ($65 each) Might have to check that price again though..

yeh the trusty SK tramline setup can be hard to drive..

i better not drift this wkend on my 18 by 9/10 neg 17s

suspension might explode on impact with tarmac

:D Cheers :P

*shrug* you can believe whatever you want mate, but personally, i'm with SK on this one... its sheer physics... and basic (i.e. year 9 level) physics at that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...