Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys im new to this forum, im looking to buy a GTS4. i have found one that i really like and am gonna get it checked out by RACV soon. but i dont quite trust them as they arent skyline experts and probly just see if the car is gonna run for the next 6 months...

anyway...

its a 1996 or 1997 GTS4 M-Spec II (with the great looking fog lights at the front)

89000 kms on the clock

$14,900 is marked price but i will def negotiate

its very clean on the inside, there are to rips, tears or scratches that i was able to spot

i took it for a test drive and it seemed very smooth, no real rattles or clanks that i could hear

i was wondering if there was anything in specific that i should look for as i dont know very much about skylines.

any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

also if possible i would greatly appreciate if some1 would come with me to check it out in person.

Thank you in advance

-JACK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125622-looking-to-buy-a-gts4/
Share on other sites

thank you very much for that link, there is a lot of very good info in that list, so much so that i kinda feel overwhelmed with all of it. is there anyone in melbourne that would be intereseted in coming with me to check it out as i would rather have a fellow enthusiast looking over it that knows exactly what to look for instead of a mechanic that i dont know...

Obviously there is a lot more to look for then i expected and it would be at least a couple of hours worth of time, i am more then happy to pay for an honest and unbiased opinion from some1 that knows what they are looking at.

Any responce would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

-Jack

yeh i took it for a drive and i really like the feel of the car, i have no problem with the car, i love it actually, i just want to make sure that the car is good quality and not just looks and what is RAA?

yeh i will definitely get racv check done but i dont want to go on the opinion of RACV alone as they are not specialists of any kind, they basically any old workshop mechanic that have an RACV sticker on their shop window, im not saying that they are bad but they may not be that good either, thats why i want some1 that has an in depth knowledge about skylines as there are obviosly heaps of skyline specific things to look for that probly wouldnt be on their general car checklist.

yeh i will definitely get racv check done but i dont want to go on the opinion of RACV alone as they are not specialists of any kind, they basically any old workshop mechanic that have an RACV sticker on their shop window, im not saying that they are bad but they may not be that good either, thats why i want some1 that has an in depth knowledge about skylines as there are obviosly heaps of skyline specific things to look for that probly wouldnt be on their general car checklist.

RACV Suck Arse... They were one of the main groups lobbying against imports that started all the new RAWS stuff. Not That RAWS is BAD but the whole thing was to try stop imports altogether. My mate is an inspector for RACV and they are told to give Imports a hard time...

Go VACC or a private mechanic is even better if you trust them. Where are you getting the car from, whoever it is if they want to really sell the car they will organise to take it where you want so long as it is not to far... If not, there is probably something wrong with the car

All R33 GTS4's are non-turbo, you know that right? Its only R32 GTS4 that are turbo.

And all turbo R33 GTS25t are Type-M. So i dont think the model you are referring to exists? Or am i wrong?

I realise that it is non-turbo, i dont want a turbo as im on P's and dont want the extra insurance cost. plus i like the 4wd capability of it :wub: Its an M-spec II as it has different foglight design to the standard M-Spec

When I sold my 180SX the buyer paid for an RACQ inspection. i had to roll my eyes at all the garbage on the report, including "engine surges under load". I said, yeah 15psi on a stock turbo will do that.

The guys father looked at me like I was an idiot and replied with "my turbo diesel ute doesn't..."

Far out. :thumbsdown: to RACQ inspectors (albeit it was 2001)

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...