Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Can someone point me in the right direction for getting the pop up In-Dash TV for an R34, wanting to convert the 3 gauge to the Pop Up TV.

Cheers,

COATZI

Try Slizewide imports from this forum sponsor section that might supply you with pop-up tv dash as he get parts from japan.

Good luck with all this.

Hi Guys,

Can someone point me in the right direction for getting the pop up In-Dash TV for an R34, wanting to convert the 3 gauge to the Pop Up TV.

Cheers,

COATZI

as mention try nengun or yahoo auctions...

there is a guide on the net to hook it up so that it works with the r34 gt-t ecu

out of couriosity wouldey they work in r33 or r32 gtr

if you are running a stock ecu then yes, i belived some dude in HK, put one in his r33 gtr... but if your running an aftermarket ecu then you could just use it for a tv i guess

here is the link for wiring digram to put in other skyline r32/33

http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...D=3160&PN=1

They do come in the 34GTt and it does pop up and it looks nothing like the 34gtr one. Its used as a tv and controls for the stereo. My friends parents have one in there turbo 34 in replace of the 3 gauges. It was a factory option from nissan and im sure they would be cheaper to buy then the 34 GTR version.

Cheers

Chris

^^Hi Chris,

The GTT Definatley can come with a pop up Screen and its not like the GTR at all its in car Navigation and is used as a TV screen also and cd player. Ill post up a pic! Mite be hard trying to find one 2nd hand as i have only ever seen one.

Edited by 95SKY
' date='13 Jul 2006, 10:44 PM' post='2327583']

if you are running a stock ecu then yes, i belived some dude in HK, put one in his r33 gtr... but if your running an aftermarket ecu then you could just use it for a tv i guess

here is the link for wiring digram to put in other skyline r32/33

http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...D=3160&PN=1

R34 GTR MFD's work in any car irrespective of your ECU. If you can mount it and cable the sensor inputs yourself you can use it.

This thread is about the R34 GT-T/GT-V factory option popup TV set though not retrofitting a R34 MFD to a GT-T.

There are occasionally auctions for all sorts of GT-T interior pieces on Yahoo! Japan and i bet with some patience something like this could be had for well under 40,000 yen. Most likely 10,000 - 15,000 yen as I don't think there would be a huge demand for it in Japan.

Here's a search link:

R34 Interior Parts

the 'pop up in dash' i've only even seen in the GT-R, i've never seen it in a GTt. so if you want one i guess look for a place that sells R34 GT-R parts

The gtr ones and GTT ones are totaly different, I have a factory one on my mwifes GT, The gtr ones are fixed where as the gtt ones pop up out of the dash electronically and the fold away when finished. I must admit they look trick but are totally usless here in Aus as you cant convert the GPS. and you cant hook up a dvd player as there are no inputs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...