Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had discussion's with my mechanic where i told him i wanted a 10w 40 redline rating in the gtr! What it had!

I find out he couldnt get it and has put in a 15 w 50 version ... NOw i am paranoid about this because of the complex componnents in the 26's head

. He made a statement that i will have better oil pressure because it reads low on the guage ...

I just belive the Gauge is intermitent . and waiting to install a better device..

Now we are talking $130 worth of oil here and i just wanted opinions if i should re change or run it until next change ... What could happen ? Topend ware?

to me the motor is very Quiet and strong with 140,000 km's .. I do know it had its magor service at 100000 belt (Etc)

What do you think ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126182-wrong-expensive-oil-put-in-redline/
Share on other sites

Bascisally, nissan recommend a 7.5 w 30.

Thinner cold viscosity helps it to lubricate the engine quicker when it's been sitting e.g. overnight. Most of the wear to an engine occurs during start up.

The warm viscosity isn't as important. But a thicker oil requires more heat to break it down at high temperatures.

Yeah its pissed me off a bit ..... I will do a short change 2000

To be hounest i just want the car outta his shop ...

He came across as knowing a bit but as you go along you realise that he is learning as he is going ... This is the last mechanic to ever touch this Car in the town of Albury Wodonga .. I have learnt so so the hard way ....

it is mega Cold here in winter so it makes no sense again!

Thanks

Ish!

Yes do your own oil changees and use a nice PureOne or genuine filter.

The 15w50 will be fine, do remember nissan recommend 7.5w30 for a new motor with jap conditions being considerably cooler than ours.

I'd leave it in for the whole 5000k. No need to drop it. :(

As your spending so much on oil consider have an oil analysis done on it after 5k, then drop in the 10w40 do 5k on it and give that an oil analysis too. Will indicate which is better suited to the driving and condition of your motor.

Can you even get 20W50 in a good synthetic oil?

I've only seen 20W50 in cheap minerals oil, good for old XF Falcons and the like.

Have a go yourself, you couldnt, f**k up more then your mechanic already has. Didn't even do as you asked.

it was a case of me swallowing my temper to get my car outta there!

Redline make it in that Viscos For there Big ol Gappy motors in the States .

No, don't dump the oil. Redline being polyol ester base have pretty good cold pour point, i would say used it to 10k before you dump it.

The oil you have will be fine, but if you want to have an argument with the mechanic that's up to you. One-off oil analysis falls into the same category as cryogenic treatment......a complete waste of time and money.

Not a complete waste of time.

Early notification of fuel, water air filter problems... And gives you an indication of the oils VI over your change period.

With regards to wear yes it can be a waste of time.

SteveL it was way more things than just the wrong oil that caused tension.

I simply found out he had BS'd me on a few points > this Was not the Point of the Thread

I Asked here about the viscos because i didnt know and wanted to get the info form people that did, incase of Damage.

Regarding the OIL analysis I just found it Personaly interesting to see what becomes of the oil after a term, not to argue.

Its all good now ... Cars home ,it has its proper oil and the Vl Commie has its own batch now too, Nothing Wasted!

thanks everyone.

Edited by ishh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...