Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all,

Im bored of 405rwhp and im dont exactly have alot of turbo knowledge.

At the moment i have an r33 '98 n1 engine with the following mods:

n1 turbos

pfc

full exhaust minus dumps

fmic

ebc

cam gears

and the usual crap

pod

bov

i cant remember what else i have..

anyway

for what i have i think the boost seems a little laggy

but im not sure wether to go big single or twin

i just dont want the lag any worse than it is now

dyno attached.

Cheers

Brendan

post-1149-1152929252.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126186-time-to-think-about-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Gday all,

Im bored of 405rwhp and im dont exactly have alot of turbo knowledge.

At the moment i have an r33 '98 n1 engine with the following mods:

n1 turbos

pfc

full exhaust minus dumps

fmic

ebc

cam gears

and the usual crap

pod

bov

i cant remember what else i have..

anyway

for what i have i think the boost seems a little laggy

but im not sure wether to go big single or twin

i just dont want the lag any worse than it is now

dyno attached.

Cheers

Brendan

I know what you mean..

I wish my car took off at the lights at good velocity without thrashing the thing..or sounding like I am.

Nothing beats the slight pedal you need to launch a v8,and nothing beats the force of twin turbos

Lag sucks.

Anyway, if you want to spend some money, get some HKS cams.

HKS 2.8L Stroker kit.

HKS gt-rs Turbos(400psi each)You did say you had a GTR

HKS Stainless dumps(or mild steel)

700cc Sard injectors

Nismo( oil, water,petrol) pumps

Tune it with a APEXIfc D-getro unit...removing the afm's

Oh make sure you upgrade your brakes.... :(

You will have instant response ,plenty in the middle and :) at the top

I think what happens is the larger the motor the less lag you get, and the less restrictions you have on the airflow,

the better you can tune your lag..

Your using the older N1's... thats why it doesnt feel so good.

R34 N1s or GT-SS will come on way way earlier than your current ones, and will make the same, if not a tad more peak power.

With such a meatier mid-range you wont know the difference in the car.

Failing that go a little bigger to 2530's or thier Garrett equivalent.

Your using the older N1's... thats why it doesnt feel so good.

R34 N1s or GT-SS will come on way way earlier than your current ones, and will make the same, if not a tad more peak power.

With such a meatier mid-range you wont know the difference in the car.

Failing that go a little bigger to 2530's or thier Garrett equivalent.

Hello Nismoid,

A funny thing happened the other day, my daughter aged 7 asked what you were doing with your hand under the table.

My comment "He has an itch so his just scraching "

Anyway Brendon back to the topic......Nismoid are you saying the hks2530's are bigger and have less lag than

N1GTR34 new type turbos.........and is the corresponding turbo in the Garrett GT2860R -5 to the HKS?

My interests are the same as Brendon.......

If it wasn't for the money the convertion for Brendon would have been excellent........I have ordered the GT2860R -5 for my gtr

Keep my fingers crossed on the response levels and the increase in power

II think what happens is the larger the motor the less lag you get

The bigger the displacement the more exhaust gas you will have at x revs, hence it will spool the exhaust wheel up faster creating boost faster. But also the bigger the motor the more of a restriction the rear exhaust wheel will create so you need to adjust this to suit.

A funny thing happened the other day, my daughter aged 7 asked what you were doing with your hand under the table.

My comment "He has an itch so his just scraching "

:)

Nismoid are you saying the hks2530's are bigger and have less lag than

N1GTR34 new type turbos.........and is the corresponding turbo in the Garrett GT2860R -5 to the HKS?

No, i said the R34 N1's & GT-SS are very similar, in the same rear housing.

The HKS 2530's are bigger, but the come on later than R34 N1's/GT-SS and make more power.

Brendan needs to decide if he wants bliztering response and similar power, or the same response now, with more power

Why don't you take a step back on turbo size and change your powerful GTR into a response monster GTR. Sacrifice some peak power to spread it through the rev range and earlier spool. Just a suggestion.

I would imagine it would be a totally different animal to drive! Through a friend of mine, I get to drive some really well prep'd cars and I absolutely love responsive cars rather than the huge horsepower cars as they feel faster and much more enjoyable to toy around in! But i'm not a straight line man, I like curves.

That was some good reading....and i am corrected on the topic of comparing GT to HKS :D

The GT2860-9 in the Garrett are close to hks gt-ss at 320hp each

The GT2860-5 in the Garrett are close to hks 2530 at 350hp each

and GT2860-10 in the Garrett are close to hks gt-rs at 400hp each

and the GT2860-7 in Garrett are close to the 34N1 at 300hp each

This answers everything now......

The two that spool up the fastest are the gtss and 34N1 320hp and 300hp respectively

These both are lower in horse-power thus spoll quicker and seem like a better ride

The GT2860-5 are the best choice if you have modes to support the horses

and the GT-rs are fantastic for Horse power junkies who want whip-lash

:P

So the answer,(Brendon) if you want to go twin turbo with your modes would be the -5 or 2530's(700hp)

This way you can build the engine, still adding modes and the turbos will not have to be changed

i think you guys missed something aswell

before jumping to the conclusion of changing turbo's

upgrade your dump pipes they will certainly be holding back some spool time and i'd also imagine a bit of topend flow aswell.. im quite suprised they hadnt been done yet anyway...

cams?

I agree, as I suggested to Brendon the ultimate upgrade........but hey we all have budgets....

He is only looking for an upgrade for his Turbos at the moment.........and deciding 2 or single.

There has been no response yet on the single and the cost of the convertion....

I think its because most single convertions.....correct me if I am wrong.....are for drag purposes

and the boost does not come on till 4000rpm making it a very slugish driving it daily.

Hope I have been some help to this thread....good luck with your choice Brendon

I think its because most single convertions.....correct me if I am wrong.....are for drag purposes

and the boost does not come on till 4000rpm making it a very slugish driving it daily.

He doesnt see boost till 5200rpm with his current setup, I think 4k would be a great improvement.

He doesnt see boost till 5200rpm with his current setup, I think 4k would be a great improvement.

cheers for all the replys so far

yes its an r34 gt-t with an n1 engine

its used for daily driving, but i would like a bit more power and alot better response.

im not really up to touching internals and since its an n1 it should be able to take a bit more still.

stuff like cams, dump pipes, turbos was what i had in mind to upgrade.

but finding suitable turbo(s) is what im after ;)

hmm... If you are happy with the power, and just want it a LOT earlier, then its R34 N1's or GT-SS in my book.

The power is extremely linear in delivery and good for a RWD car (hence its the same setup i am option for with mt RWD/RB26)

Un-cam'd RB26's ive seen get around 300-330rwkw with just a cam gear + GT-SS (or garrett equivalent)

Numbers vary between dyno's of course.

I would suggest dumps with the GT-SS... cam gear and your well on your way to super response

i was thinking overall cost.. sure r34 n1's would be better.. but i'd rather change the dump pipes first sure not holding it back 1500rpm.. but still holding it back.. and well sure it shows power can be made with stock dumps.. how ever its also been proven that people make better power all over the shock with a good set of dumps.. the power appears to be very smooth for a rwd setup which is wat i'd want in a rwd car either way he should be upgrading the dumps to get the best out of any turbo either way.. not my car not my money

Anything before R34 N'1's is overall not good response, a simple search would tell you that.

The dumps are holding it back, yes, but a good 1500rpm, no.

I wonder why they are spooling up so late?

I think maybe the Tuner set this up for maximum power at the top RPM range

I would of had it tuned for a more responsive ,progressive curve where there is some boost

at 3k to 5k RPM. Who really uses a street car up at 7k anyway?

Sure change the dumps to HKS but also change the tune to road use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...