Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone recommend a cheap place to get guards rolled?? I just put new tyres on my car and got a wheel align, it now scrubs like crazy, i didn't go up a size, had 265/35 falkens and now have dodgy 265/35 nexxens... Its rubbing on the inner half of the guard lip, the thing is i think i could solve the problem myself with the trusty angle grinder, is this a good idea? (like i'm only cutting the lip of the guard not the visible part of the guard itself).. although i imagine that lip must add quite a bit of strength to the panel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/
Share on other sites

Can anyone recommend a cheap place to get guards rolled?? I just put new tyres on my car and got a wheel align, it now scrubs like crazy, i didn't go up a size, had 265/35 falkens and now have dodgy 265/35 nexxens... Its rubbing on the inner half of the guard lip, the thing is i think i could solve the problem myself with the trusty angle grinder, is this a good idea? (like i'm only cutting the lip of the guard not the visible part of the guard itself).. although i imagine that lip must add quite a bit of strength to the panel.

Dont cut it youself, the angle grinder could possibly leave some sharp edges.

Hit a hole when turning and it'll slice through that tyre.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2331167
Share on other sites

Can anyone recommend a cheap place to get guards rolled??

If you split the loot with me 50/50 ill roll the guards for you while you do the job... :)

Nah any good wheel shop will do it for you. Most will heat your panels slightlly to stop cracking...

I suggest Superior tyre or Jaxx at Apsley whcih are side by side also...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2331348
Share on other sites

hmm thanks guys.

Good point about the grinder option, i'll rule that out, only other idea is if i could figure out a way of 'pinching' the lip so it sits higher up, without buckling the guard.

Guess its better to get a proper rolling, col i suggest an oceans 11 style heist on the treasury :) or maybe the italian job is better- use 3 r33's and call it the japanese job lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2331398
Share on other sites

be careful where you go. my dad got his guards rolled at jax and they did a crap job. they cracked the paint, if you look closely the guards are unevenly rolled & inside the wheel arch its all messy where the metal has been pushed back. When my dad complained about it they didnt care because they had already got his money from the new 19's he just bought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2334933
Share on other sites

Can anyone recommend a cheap place to get guards rolled?? I just put new tyres on my car and got a wheel align, it now scrubs like crazy, i didn't go up a size, had 265/35 falkens and now have dodgy 265/35 nexxens... Its rubbing on the inner half of the guard lip, the thing is i think i could solve the problem myself with the trusty angle grinder, is this a good idea? (like i'm only cutting the lip of the guard not the visible part of the guard itself).. although i imagine that lip must add quite a bit of strength to the panel.

sell car .... buy GTR or V35 ... flared guards already installed :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2336046
Share on other sites

hey, my rear tyres were being cut by the guards before i rolled them (had about 300kg worth of stuff in the boot, and 4 passengers, on stock suspension, so it was sagging a farkload) so i pulled the rear wheels off, bashed the inner lip of the guard up flush on the inside (even flared the guards a tiny bit) and it turned out fine!!!!! wouldn't recommend it on a skyline though :blush:

mind you, this is in the middle of nowhere (Torbanlea, which is halfway between Maryborough and Bundaberg)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126210-guard-rolling/#findComment-2338801
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...