Rb20det With Garett Gt2871r To Laggy?

[Interloper]

hey guys, i've got a HKS GTRS on the RB20 with tuning to be finished on wednesday, so we can see what kind of response/power we get....

a GTRS is basically a GT2871r 52trim, .64, with T3 flange so it bolted on with no hassles, also came with cast 90degree elbow which you *need* and all oil & water lines....pretty much the hassle free way to go

when compared with the cost of getting custom water & oil lines, bolts, washers, cast elbow etc....the HKS GTRS is not that expensive compared to just the garrett GT2871r....

[ROB32T]

I just got a gt2871r on my r32 gtst from horsepower in a box about a month ago and i have similar mods to what you have on your car. I was going to go with the adapter plate but the owner actually talked me out of it. he reccomended the std exhaust wheel with the larger intake wheel because it suited my driving style. Boost doesnt come on that much later, bout 4000 4500 and its on.

Just tell morrie (the boss) what you are putting it on and let him work out whats best for you. Very friendly guy and very helpful. I must have called him about 4 times during the install for advice as it was my first ever turbo swap and was a bit nervous.

[Interloper]

^^^ seems like alot of hassle and unknown combinations...easiest just to buy the HKS GTRS kit

[Roy]

Keen to see the GT-RS results. I think your about the first guy to try iton SAU...and congrats for actually spending good money on a real turbo for an RB20

[Dale FZ1]

Agreed. Top marks for having a go. I think this match will probably result in an effective rpm range starting at 3500 and running up above 7500. Interesting to see how it goes.

[Dale FZ1]

I just got a gt2871r on my r32 gtst from horsepower in a box about a month ago and i have similar mods to what you have on your car. I was going to go with the adapter plate but the owner actually talked me out of it. he reccomended the std exhaust wheel with the larger intake wheel because it suited my driving style. Boost doesnt come on that much later, bout 4000 4500 and its on.

Just tell morrie (the boss) what you are putting it on and let him work out whats best for you. Very friendly guy and very helpful. I must have called him about 4 times during the install for advice as it was my first ever turbo swap and was a bit nervous.

So did you run with an adaptor plate, or have a stock Nissan housing machined to match?

Was it a 56T or 48T compressor?

Comment on overall results - driveability, what rpm does it start to flatten out, and any idea on dyno results?

[ROB32T]

Thanks guys. Thought i might try something a little differant.

Its the 56T but because i've got the r32 rear housing its smaller than the one shown it brings the power down to a 400hp turbo.

Its the std r32 rear housing modified internally. Made things a hell of alot easier and less chances of leaks cause i'm not running an adapter plate.

boost begins at about 3000/3500 and comes on nicely instead of the sudden bang that my original turbo used to do. by about 4000/4500 its running hard. I've found that now it doesn't just feel powerful in first and second, the car just keeps pulling harder and harder.

I don't have any dyno figures yet cause I am yet to get my injectors and power fc. So untill then I think I'll keep the boost down hey

[Cubes]

Its such a waste running a big comp wheel when the hot side simply can't flow it.... Trade off response for....

Throw a 48t on it and it would be a much better match.

[Dale FZ1]

Its such a waste running a big comp wheel when the hot side simply can't flow it.... Trade off response for....

Throw a 48t on it and it would be a much better match.

The 48T would be a better match for sure. It is actually very responsive on a RB25, and the power available from it is adequate for most uses. It's a case of area under the curve, or that "average power" concept.

The issue with the 56T is not so much the ability of the turbine to flow, but to drive into boost. The extra blade area on the larger trim just needs a bit more to get going. As Rob32T indicated, it's not lacking for grunt once into boost, but the rpm where it starts to come together is a little higher than I would find desirable. It may suit his needs, however.

[discopotato03]

I believe at $75 a tank fill power down where its needed most often is more practical .

Cheers .

[RedDrifter]

I cant wait to see the GTRS power curve and figues.

If it seems to work out ( As I expect it will) then I'm next for one. :-)

[ROB32T]

I'll let ya's know how it goes once I get the rest of my gear. I'm pretty confident that I'll be happy with it.

[Dale FZ1]

Any pics?

Your upgrade is very similar to mine, just being used on RB20 instead of RB25.

Interested to see much/any different from how I routed my oil/water lines.

Edited July 26, 2006 by Dale FZ1

[ROB32T]

sorry dude, i didn't take any pics of it.

I just ran braided lines for all of em

I'll see what i can do for some pics if you still want them.

are you happy with the way yours performs?

[Dale FZ1]

Likewise, mine are all braided. It was more the routing I was interested in. Fitup shouldn't be any different, given they are pretty much the same engine and style of high flow.

Pics would be good, mainly for interest of all.

Here is the thread on mine: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2359870

And yes, ATM I'm very pleased with its performance. Lag is not something I would associate with this combination. Starting to get used to the extra grunt, and I'm looking forward to having it tuned to the potential I aimed for.

cheers

Dale

[Interloper]

Keen to see the GT-RS results. I think your about the first guy to try iton SAU...and congrats for actually spending good money on a real turbo for an RB20

ok, got the car tuned today. dyno sheets will be up soon/tomorrow.

using 18psi made 215rwkw on DrDrifts dyno, with heaps of midrange power....which was my main goal of going from a laggy RB25 highflow to the smaller GTRS.

i haven't checked yet when i get full boost by, i'll check tomorrow....

i'm sure most people will say "thats too low power" but considering that a RB20 with cams and a HKS 2535 made only 190rwkw on the same dyno recently.....should be enough to appease critics.

[ROB32T]

well done inter. i likey

thanks dale. good DIY. I'll see if I can get some pics this weekend for ya

[Dale FZ1]

That's nothing to sneeze at; knocking on the door of 300hp (sounds bigger). I bet it hauls...

FWIW, remember absolute numbers mean little in a lot of instances. The shape of the graph indicates plenty.

Do you have a graph to add? Maybe post it up on the stickies section.

cheers

Dale

[RedDrifter]

That's nothing to sneeze at; knocking on the door of 300hp (sounds bigger). I bet it hauls...

FWIW, remember absolute numbers mean little in a lot of instances. The shape of the graph indicates plenty.

Do you have a graph to add? Maybe post it up on the stickies section.

cheers

Dale

Yeah tottally agree with you mate, and not forgetting this is a GTS4 so more losses in the drive train compared to a GTS-T and from what I understand The gtrs is still fairly efficent over 18psi.

I want one!!!

[AnFz]

ok, got the car tuned today. dyno sheets will be up soon/tomorrow.

using 18psi made 215rwkw on DrDrifts dyno, with heaps of midrange power....which was my main goal of going from a laggy RB25 highflow to the smaller GTRS.

i haven't checked yet when i get full boost by, i'll check tomorrow....

i'm sure most people will say "thats too low power" but considering that a RB20 with cams and a HKS 2535 made only 190rwkw on the same dyno recently.....should be enough to appease critics.

I had my car tuned at Dr Drifts as well about a fortnight ago. Full 3" zorst, FMIC, fuel pump, GT2871r @ 16psi it made 183rwkw, no cams. This was all through a bit shift kitted VLT auto though...with a manual I would expect it to be slightly higher

Mines a 400hp spec GT2871r