Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

instead of wasting your money on expensive redline which wont' do anything, because your diff is viscious (separate fluid for the viscous), I would honestly, use a castrol fluid.

Castrol lsx90. Cost ya about $30 for a 4L big bottle. You'll need 1.8L.

Castrol oils are a fairly good place to start from. At least it'll be correct.

Then, see how it feels, if it's good, then fine, it's good. From there, if you have a problem, then go mucking around with different fluids.

I have a mech diff, so I'm using motul oil, just so it changes the properties (won't do much to a viscous).

For the VLSDs used in GTSTs...the castrol Syntrax 75W90 is a good product...GL5 rated. Bit more expensive but great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2829141
Share on other sites

My questino for you is WHY (no pun or offence intended, just seeking information)?

Why use a gearbox oil in an LSD? The LSD should be using LSD oil with friction modifiers (yes I am aware that vlsd haev a separate oil/transfer fluid).

Why use a synthetic oil that will essentially be more slippery, when you want it to grip more?

Why waste money on something that is not required? Essentially the syntrax is $30 a litre rrp as opposed to about $8 a litre rrp for the lsx90 (trade price is a bit cheaper)

PS: In a gearbox, I can see the benefit of using the syntrax synthetic as opposed to the vmx80.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832030
Share on other sites

In a true LSD, i.e. non VLSD you would use a friction modifed gear oil. The GTST stock runs a VLSD so you dont require the friction modifiers.

LSX90 is a LSD friction modified mineral base oil.

For a VLSD..gb oil is fine. Syntrax is a high quality 75W-90 syn oil and is suitable.

considering its like 1.2 litres and stays there for ages then I choose Syntrax for my GTST. Syn oil and "slippery" is a crock and its more about the oils resistance to sheer under high pressure and temps. The SAE rating will determine ur viscosity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832410
Share on other sites

It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2832482
Share on other sites

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

there's no point in using ANY oil past the point at which it starts to break down. however, that might be 3000km for a mineral oil, 5000km for a basic synthetic or 10,000km for a top shelf synthetic. so if you buy a cheaper oil you will have to change it more often anyway.

i'd rather buy good quality, full synth oil and change it "often enough". grab a sample of basic mineral oil (GTX3) and a good synth oil, and rub each one between your fingers. the full synth one is a LOT slipperier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2837336
Share on other sites

It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

Personal prefernce. I will change it every year also with the good stuff maybe more sometime cos I get bored. I dont give a toss if it costs me an extra $40/50 or even $100 a year.

I do UOAs on my oil and have used these to detmine what is a. a good oil and b. how long to run it unde rmy driving conditions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-2837397
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways.

But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil.

e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks?

Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc.

I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh.

That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

so i shouldnt be using the redline shockproof in the Diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126666-diff-oil/page/2/#findComment-4326080
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My son saw this Porsche 904 in Yodoyabashi in Osaka, not sure if it's the plastic or fibreglass version 767605763.559358.mp4
    • I agree re not trusting it as it makes mistakes however can do hours of research for you at times by simply asking a question
    • The I've done a lot of research and feel like I'm becoming a nut and washer expert. The washer in question doesn’t look very conical—it’s almost flat, but one side has a chamfer. The guide's picture shows the convex side (chamfered side) facing the nut, but the text says the chamfer should face the pulley, which is confusing. If I follow the picture, the chamfer faces the nut, but the instructions say the opposite. When I place the washer on a flat surface, one side looks flatter—maybe that's the concave side—so I would expect the chamfer to be on that side. But it isn’t, which adds to the confusion. The term chamfer is also throwing me off. I always thought the concave side should face the pulley, and the convex side (with the chamfer) should face the nut or bolt head. But Nissan’s instructions say the chamfer should face the pulley, which seems backward. I know I’m probably overthinking it, but I want to be sure I’m doing it right. Also, I’ve seen some people replace the nut and stud with a bolt, but I assume that’s not a good idea, since it might not keep proper tension on the tensioner. Lastly, just to be 100% sure: the pressure washer should face the pulley, then the conical washer? That feels strange, since usually the pressure washer goes first, facing the bolt or nut.
    • I checked, i dont think it was the indicator stalk. The problem just magically fixed itself though. 
    • H1 is not the Humvee, but is the most road based version. Lachlan (HankScorpio) on here has a proper Humvee. He imported it a few years back.
×
×
  • Create New...