Exact Parts To Correct Front Camber

[ix9]

OK,

So no amount of searching has made this obvious to me as to what I require to fix front camber!

I Just bought new coilover suspension (G4 Racing)

I just bought Rear Camber Arms

Now, all that's left is maybe some sway bars and my FRONT CAMBER FIXED!

What parts do I need to fix this? (castor/tension/pillowball/doodleface rods/bushes, its ALL chinese to me)

Cheers guys!

[djr81]

Um, you have mostly answered your own question.

You need a front camber adjustment kit. Try Whiteline, they have bucketloads of the things.

By the way, what rear arms did you get?

Edited July 19, 2006 by djr81

[Mr. Oizo]

The G4 coilovers didn't come with front Camber Plates?

[ix9]

Nope, the R33 models of the G4 Racing Coilovers do not come with camber plates

Rear Arms were just random ones, don't think there's any brand name to them, but hey, if they do the job, its OK by me

[Mr. Oizo]

in that case

just get some whiteline camber bolts

the part number is KCA348

[Sydneykid]

This thread may give you some idea why bushes are recommended;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=sphericals

Then pop over to the Group Buy section and look up the parts for your model.

cheers

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

for front, whiteline adjustable camber bushes will do the job, and are also cheaper than an adustable arm (ie. aftermarket lower control arm). And safer.

You can't get camber plates for skyline (like you can with s13 mcpherson strut) because of the front suspension configuration.

I haven't found much need for camber adjustment on my skyline (neither front or rear), aslong as it's not excessively lowered. The bushes are good for fine tuning though.

[djr81]

Merlin, I think you mean the upper arm. Actually I am curious to discover what brand of arm Strich9 has.

For my 10 cents - if you take your Skyline anywhere within 100 miles of a circuit you need camber adjustment to get the thing to work at all well. The front tends to suffer from a lack of camber adjustment in roll with the unhappy consequence of bulk understeer.

If you lower a GT-R the camber effect on the rear is more pronounced than on the front. You get loads of negative camber on the rear that you don't want or need. The rear kits actually dial out negative camber.

You don't get sufficient negative camber on the front unless you go silly with the ride height. So the front kits usually get used to increase the negative camber. Some people, however, just want a lowered road car & go the other way on the front.

Oh and camber plates are only for MacPherson struts. Wishbone suspended cars would never need such a horrible device.

Edited July 19, 2006 by djr81

[ix9]

Merlin, I think you mean the upper arm. Actually I am curious to discover what brand of arm Strich9 has.

I meant rear camber arms obviously. And they are eBay specials haha

ps thanks for all the advice guys - now how easy are the KCA348 kits to install ?

My car is legal height atm with Nismo Coilovers, soon to be lowered another 2-3cm at the rear, and another 1-1.5cm at the front.

Camber is already a HUGE problem for my rear end, chewing out tyres, hence the rear camber arms.

The front is bad due to the soft spungy stuffed suspension (nismo's are stuffed) hopefully if i can correct it with a few bushes, it will be good!

P.S. Do I need to get a full wheel alignment and everything done once I've installed front and rear camber and new coilovers ?

[djr81]

Q1: To install the kits you need a hydraulic press. Best left to the experts.

Q2: Yes.

[R DIRTY 3]

Stritch, I use Super pro camber adjustment bushes on the front. Little bit expensive as the kit comes complete with tubes, sleeves and bushes. If you want to know more about it or want to have a look at the kit let me know. How bad is the camber now? what reading? Standard height should not give too much problem.

Regards

R Dirty 3

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

oh, i've also found the nolathane adjustable camber bushes are alot cheaper than the whiteline ones and do the same thing. So, you should compare prices for both before you buy.

[R DIRTY 3]

Id be a little cautious using Nolathane for that. Too hard compound? speaking, noisy etc? Never used them for that but have not liked them for too many other applications.

Regards

R Dirty 3

[ix9]

R DIRTY 3,

Do you have any linkage to these super pro camber bushes online?

Approximate price?

Ps. The camber is bad enough right now - enough to scrub the front right wheel to CANVAS and have the outer still remain well within legal limits

(no its not stock ride height, but its not that low either!)

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

haven't used the nolathane ones, i don't think they will be too hard, their website is http://www.nolathane.com.au/

this is what the faq has to say on the issue...

Is Nolathane too hard?

Nolathane formulations have evolved over many years. As the clear market leader in Australia & New Zealand our formulations have become progressively softer whilst becoming stronger. Each bush is designed using the most suitable grade of softness to suit the application. Misinformation spread by small competitors suggests that Nolathane is hard - this is simply old hat! We invite you to compare the "leading brands" and you will find virtually all bushes are now of similar softness. As the Australian & New Zealand markets are so small with only 24 million total population we have focused away from just motor sport application to what we call 'Streetable Polyurethane". In other words you can fit Nolathane products to a family car and obtain good performance improvement without compromising too much on ride, improved handling, steering & in many cases brake response without a harsh ride. Most Polyurethane you might see in the USA or Europe is around 93-95 Durometer shore A as they concentrate on a racing / extreme performance market, less than 1% of the Nolathane range is 93 Duro and these are normally to replace original hard nylon bushes. Most of our products are 74 or 85 Duro. When we design a bush we evaluate the best duro (hardness) for the application and that is what we design to, we do not normally make the same part in different hardness's as we try to pick the best handling / ride compromise.

Do urethane bushes squeak?

Basically NO. squeaking is caused by high frequency vibrations that can be heard rather than felt. Usually the cause of squeaking is the incorrect application of grease (not greasing the correct areas eg: flange faces & internal bores), greasing the incorrect areas (outside of bushes designed to be installed inside the suspension component) or even over greasing (applying grease everywhere), however the presence of rust, paint or rubber deposits between the bush and the component or housing can also be a major factor.

anyway, whiteline bushes use polyurethane, which i think is the same stuff nolethane bushes use anyway?

oh also, the whiteline adjustable camber bushes (r32 gtst) state +/- 0.5deg camber adjusment

the nolethane camber adjusment bush kit states +/- 1.5deg camber adjusment

i haven't researched cost, but i'd probably be going the nolethane kit.

Edited July 20, 2006 by MerlinTheHapyPig

[djr81]

The Whiteline bushes (the yellow ones) are actually quite a bit softer than the (red) nolathane type.

[R DIRTY 3]

Think Whiteline bushes are made by SuperPro.

Strich ill see what info and price i can get for you and let you know probably tomorrow.

Regards

R Dirty 3

[Sydneykid]

whiteline bushes use polyurethane, which i think is the same stuff nolethane bushes use anyway?

oh also, the whiteline adjustable camber bushes (r32 gtst) state +/- 0.5deg camber adjusment

the nolethane camber adjusment bush kit states +/- 1.5deg camber adjusment

Nolathane bushes are ~90 duro, Whiteline are ~75 duro, standard rubber is ~30 duro (when new, around 10 duro after 60,000 k's)

Nolathane correction assumes their adjustable bushes are used in both the inner and the outer joints of the upper control arms

Whiteline correction assumes their adjustable bushes are used in only the inner joints of the upper control arms. You can also use them in the outer joints if you need the extra correction.

Nolathane's correction includes the standard adjusters, Whiteline's doesn't.

Bottom both the same, just Nolathane are red and 90 duro (good for racing), Whiteline are yellow and 75 duro (good for a combo road and race).

cheers

Edited July 20, 2006 by Sydneykid

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

thanks for that sk,

the faq on nolethane's website mentions

Most of our products are 74 or 85 Duro

I'll try and get some prices and do a comparison

[R DIRTY 3]

Just thinking about it, are you sure its camber and not toe? Bad toe setting can cause tyre wear issues. Do you have a alignment printout??

Regards

R Dirty 3

p.s. PM Sent