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hay guys and girls, just woundeering what you think about puting a stage one shift kit on my R31 gxe skyline, is it worth it, i dont want to go overboard but i want to just get that little bit more out of it, also i was thinking about a B & m mega shifter, is there a way that i can wire the overdrive buutton up to the dash, as if i get the shifter it doesent have one on it, as i live in geelong victoria, just woundering if anyone from this area new of any goop places to go and talk to a professional about all this, cheers shaun :blush:

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hay guys and girls, just woundeering what you think about puting a stage one shift kit on my R31 gxe skyline, is it worth it, i dont want to go overboard but i want to just get that little bit more out of it, also i was thinking about a B & m mega shifter, is there a way that i can wire the overdrive buutton up to the dash, as if i get the shifter it doesent have one on it, as i live in geelong victoria, just woundering if anyone from this area new of any goop places to go and talk to a professional about all this, cheers shaun :wave:

im not good at explaining things so go and look it up in google, it will tell u everything u need to know,

im not good at explaining things so go and look it up in google, it will tell u everything u need to know,

JUST DID!

Shift Kit Stage One, stage 1 shift kit, R31 stage 1 shift kit, Nissan Skyline R31 Shift Kit Stage One, and many other derivatives all DREW A BLANK.

Now maybe you could try to explain or show me where I can find it via a link maybe.

But other than a stick of gelly, I can't see much point of any mod to a GXL R31, unless you got a heap of bucks to through around.

Cheers, D

i would have throught it was just a stage 1 short shift kit

This is my exact point Josh.

What's stage ONE (1)?

Short shifters shorten the throw by about 20mm, so I guess a stage one (1) is less, maybe only 5 or 10mm.

If this is the case, do all of us with 20mm have the full house real racer, stage 4 or 5 short shifters.

And for interest, does your MR30 have the short shift kit in it?

Cheers, D

Thank you AgentR31,

The mind boggles a bit why anyone would want to performance mod an auto R31.

I wanted a tow car for my HR30, so I just put a V8 into my Cressida, all problems solved, will pull the side off a house.

Cheers, D

Thank you AgentR31,

The mind boggles a bit why anyone would want to performance mod an auto R31.

I wanted a tow car for my HR30, so I just put a V8 into my Cressida, all problems solved, will pull the side off a house.

Cheers, D

I modded an Auto R31 Ghostrider. After the Turbo went in, the stock auto lasted about 2 seconds. (Slight exageration there). And I decided to keep the car auto, rather than go the manual conversion. With an Auto, they stay on boost and have less lag. Brescani racing have their cars as auto as well, and I would assume its for the same reason.

Wouldn't bother putting a shift kit in one though. Waste of money if you are going to do nothing else. A manual conversion is always another option, if you can't afford to do an auto properly, but its always good to know what you are doing with a manual conversion as well. I have seen some shockers.

Yarra Valley Automatics rebuilt my series 3 auto to handle 300 KW, and it does a fine job with 225 KW, (flywheel). BUT, I have a manual car as well, so I can still get my manual fix.

I modded an Auto R31 Ghostrider. After the Turbo went in, the stock auto lasted about 2 seconds. (Slight exageration there). And I decided to keep the car auto, rather than go the manual conversion. With an Auto, they stay on boost and have less lag. Brescani racing have their cars as auto as well, and I would assume its for the same reason.

Wouldn't bother putting a shift kit in one though. Waste of money if you are going to do nothing else. A manual conversion is always another option, if you can't afford to do an auto properly, but its always good to know what you are doing with a manual conversion as well. I have seen some shockers.

Yarra Valley Automatics rebuilt my series 3 auto to handle 300 KW, and it does a fine job with 225 KW, (flywheel). BUT, I have a manual car as well, so I can still get my manual fix.

Thanks CAZZ,

But I assume your referring to Bresciani Racing, and as they are a predominantly drag (ET) oriented business, I would assume their cars were AUTO for a whole diferent reason than you're inferring.

I would also assume the transmission was a 2 speed Powerglide, same as near every quick drag car runs, from top liner's down and they don't use them to stay on boost, they use them because they will handle massive amounts of HP, that top line drag cars produce.

As for your auto conversion, your very much off the track and out of line, cause this person/member wanted to do it on the cheap, and there is and was nothing cheap about yours or my conversion.

Cheers, D

Thanks CAZZ,

But I assume your referring to Bresciani Racing, and as they are a predominantly drag (ET) oriented business, I would assume their cars were AUTO for a whole diferent reason than you're inferring.

I would also assume the transmission was a 2 speed Powerglide, same as near every quick drag car runs, from top liner's down and they don't use them to stay on boost, they use them because they will handle massive amounts of HP, that top line drag cars produce.

As for your auto conversion, your very much off the track and out of line, cause this person/member wanted to do it on the cheap, and there is and was nothing cheap about yours or my conversion.

Cheers, D

Thanks for the spelling correction and extra info Ghostrider. I knew it was also because of HP that they use auto's, but I didn't know they used powerglides. Watching those cars in action, is certainly a sight to behold though. Go the RB30.

Thank you AgentR31,

The mind boggles a bit why anyone would want to performance mod an auto R31.

I wanted a tow car for my HR30, so I just put a V8 into my Cressida, all problems solved, will pull the side off a house.

Cheers, D

But do the headlights now work?

:D

stage one shift kitting an auto makes it change gears firmer, hold out a little bit longer ect ect probably good for a tow car

its not worth it for the money you will pay (up to $2000) for that price you can go manual and shift as hard as you want

Why not use the auto gear changer and select the gear you want,

I take it for dragging or similar, pull it back to low (first), change to second, change to third etc.. when you run out of reves. Cheap as chickens..

Why not use the auto gear changer and select the gear you want,

I take it for dragging or similar, pull it back to low (first), change to second, change to third etc.. when you run out of reves. Cheap as chickens..

True, but that won't allow you to keep the gearbox in one piece if you increse the power output significantly over stock.

Generally speaking a 'stage 1' shift kit includes modification to the valve body to provide firmer shifts (less slip=less heat) and higher clamping pressures (more holding capacity), and a larger cooler. Moving on from there you can increase the firmness further (at the expense of ride quality), and modify the clutches to cope with more power. From that point you are looking at increasing the strength of the input shaft, and possibly the planetary gearsets themselves. You're probably also in the realm of manual valve bodies & transbrakes if you're this serious.

My Z 3-speed has a custom modified valve body (it shifts HARD), Kevlar clutches, a slightly higher stall-speed converter (a 4-cylinder converter can be an easy swap for a few more stall-rpm out of your 6), and raised shift rpm points. It does have to cope with the best part of 300HP, and the standard box would be a horrid thing in these conditions (burnt out clutches would be a regular problem - resulting in complete rebuilds).

Most of this stuff is useless in a stock motor, but a 'stage 1' kit is useful when towing, as the transmission is doing more work and the reliability does benefit from the extra cooling & slightly firmer shifts.

A slightly raised stall speed can also wake up an engine, especially if it is suffering from the low speed effects of a modified camshaft, or has a larger-than-stock turbo. An otherwise standard RB30ET feels noticably crisper with a lightly modified gearbox & raised higher stall speed.

True, but that won't allow you to keep the gearbox in one piece if you increse the power output significantly over stock.

Generally speaking a 'stage 1' shift kit includes modification to the valve body to provide firmer shifts (less slip=less heat) and higher clamping pressures (more holding capacity), and a larger cooler. Moving on from there you can increase the firmness further (at the expense of ride quality), and modify the clutches to cope with more power. From that point you are looking at increasing the strength of the input shaft, and possibly the planetary gearsets themselves. You're probably also in the realm of manual valve bodies & transbrakes if you're this serious.

My Z 3-speed has a custom modified valve body (it shifts HARD), Kevlar clutches, a slightly higher stall-speed converter (a 4-cylinder converter can be an easy swap for a few more stall-rpm out of your 6), and raised shift rpm points. It does have to cope with the best part of 300HP, and the standard box would be a horrid thing in these conditions (burnt out clutches would be a regular problem - resulting in complete rebuilds).

Most of this stuff is useless in a stock motor, but a 'stage 1' kit is useful when towing, as the transmission is doing more work and the reliability does benefit from the extra cooling & slightly firmer shifts.

A slightly raised stall speed can also wake up an engine, especially if it is suffering from the low speed effects of a modified camshaft, or has a larger-than-stock turbo. An otherwise standard RB30ET feels noticably crisper with a lightly modified gearbox & raised higher stall speed.

Cool, sound like you know your stuff..

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