Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys

looking to splash out a bit of cash on some toolage..of the automotive variety

basically after a set of those spanners that are open ended one end, and ring the other end with wratchet inside the ring

repco have set for $199. metric, with from memory, sizes 10,12,14,15,17,19

anyway, was just curious bout anyone's recommendations, or who is a good shop to buy tools from

cheers, mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126974-anyone-recommend-tools/
Share on other sites

snap on make very good tools. I used to have a set, but they were stolen from my shed. grrrrrrr.

i've actually got a couple of the repco spanners. I tell you what, I cannot fault them. They are very good tools for their price. The do the same thing as my snap ons did.

The most immprotant thing I have found when looking at tools is to bring a selection of bolts of various sizes and see how tight the spanner fits onto the bolt.

Crap spanners seem to slip a lot. I was trying to install a dump into a friend's car and was using his spanners. they were shit. didn't fit onto the bolt properly.

If you like the repco ones, go have a look at supercheap auto. I personally wouldn't use any of their jacks, electrical equipment, nothing. all that stuff is a joke. it's always recalled. but funnily enough, their spanners are pretty good. not the normal ones. they're called superworks gold. they come with a lifetime warranty. you break it, you get a new one.

I have a set of the superworks gold now. very good tools. it has the needed sizes in metric and imperial. comes with ratchet and sockets too.

My particular set only has a selection of the needed sizes. $179

Honestly, get down to supercrap auto and have look. BUT DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO BUY ANYTHING ELSE. It will either blow up. poke your eye out. chop your hand off. or just not work. I bought a trolley jack, and basically, it exploded and dropped the car.

snap on make very good tools. I used to have a set, but they were stolen from my shed. grrrrrrr

they make the best as far as many mechanics are concerned ... but do you want to pay the price of them.... theu do come with a lifetime warranty ... but you certainly do pay for it...

when i was in in the trade i bought snap on, king crome and sidchrome spanners and ratchets

Edited by akeenan

i still have most of my Snap-on tools from apprentice days and my Uncle had a Van (didnt help on price). Awsome tools but the cost Sheesh!! More better suited as a Tax dodge for business...

Anyway my mate started buying kingcrome and i am really impressed with there stuff as they seem to steal most of the good ideas from the big boys ...

Individual Tools shops are everywhere ! Ask a tradesman in your Area.

Snap on isn't the only one that supply a lifteim warranty.

Sidchrome or kingchrome - can't remember which one.

repco

superworks gold.

BTW, I can't remember which one of sidchrome or kingchrome is the good one. one of them is shit. I think kingchrome is the shit one?

I can't remember this other brand. I've got some oe their tools. They are also very good.

Edited by 97r33gtst-typeM

I would go with the kinchrome tools. Seems to be best bang for your buck in my opinion. You can get them from Bunnings etc.

Really good quality and prices are very reasonable.

Also do a google for transcript direct as thats where I got alot of stuff recently.

first up, forget snap-on. their prices have gotten a lot cheaper and so has their quality. a lot of their tools are no longer made in USA.

if you want good, check out KC or stahle wille. kingchrome is pretty average. fatz tool is no good, it's broken all the time and leaks a bit.

if there's one thing i know... it's tools and you are a fine tool.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...