Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can confirm that the 260's still have the rb25 build plate. These cars were bought new by Autech then stripped down and rebuilt. Still sold with factory warranty though!

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can confirm that the 260's still have the rb25 build plate. These cars were bought new by Autech then stripped down and rebuilt. Still sold with factory warranty though!

Hi guys, so how do i check the no. of made? I am thinking of bringing my 260rs S2 back to Perth, so can any big brother tell me how much import tax that i have to pay (base on the cost of normal stagea?) And since i have own the car since new 1999/2000 so i can use the personal import scheme for import, however i still need to go thru. the inspection centre for licence, so do i have to strip off all the engine mods in order to pass the inspection? Pls help!!!

import tax is 15% of value of vehicle including the cost of shipping and plus 10% gst. Not sure how you put a current value on the car as you have owned it since new though

ic but this 260rs is kind of a special case coz the plate is 2.5lt stagea, so do u think i can escape from paying a high tax by saying this is just another type of standard nissan stagea which costs $15,000?

import tax is 15% of value of vehicle including the cost of shipping and plus 10% gst. Not sure how you put a current value on the car as you have owned it since new though

hi mcnamg,

r u from Perth too? i just wondering how much this 260rs will sell in Perth? i just got back from Perth a few days ago, and i have been to the Auto wholsale they have got a no. of stageas there... :yes:

hi mcnamg,

r u from Perth too? i just wondering how much this 260rs will sell in Perth? i just got back from Perth a few days ago, and i have been to the Auto wholsale they have got a no. of stageas there... :)

I personally hate them...b@st@rds!!! Do not go by the prices at there shop, they are absolute w@nkers and have a huge markup on their cars. they give you sh!t all for your car and then add heaps on top! :(

hehehhehe if your thinking of selling your 260 then i would have someone interested in talking to you about your car :):ermm:

I personally hate them...b@st@rds!!! Do not go by the prices at there shop, they are absolute w@nkers and have a huge markup on their cars. they give you sh!t all for your car and then add heaps on top! :P

hehehhehe if your thinking of selling your 260 then i would have someone interested in talking to you about your car :huh::)

really wildcat? :laugh: they seems to have a lot of good machines there...GTR34, RX7, EVO6...i dont mind selling my car there (but this is a white one) coz i only stay in Perth less than a month per yr. But with all the mods that i have in the car i think it would be quite hard to pass thru. inspection centre...the worst thing is the car cant be turned back to stock since it was tuned by Japs technician it does required a lot of works and $$$ to go backward...If ur friends would like to know more on the car, email me at [email protected] :O

Try to stay on topic, if you dont have info on how many 260RS's were made, start another thread or keep it to PM's!

Thanks

Yeah I wana know how many!!!!! :(

Edited by munchdesign
Err didnt Wildkat solve this question about a page ago???

Errr so what are we still doing here then? Oh, you were having a crack because you were off topic, I get it now. :(

I prefer the acurate answer of Zero Rs 260's were made... and yes I would also like to own a 260 RS some day.

Luke

import tax is 15% of value of vehicle including the cost of shipping and plus 10% gst. Not sure how you put a current value on the car as you have owned it since new though

actually import duty is 10% these days... they dropped it a while back.

at the risk of sounding rude roughly how much are you looking to sell it for? :)

i really have no idea? i own the car since new $80,000 and i have chuck in a lot of mods and $$$ into the car (that may not worth a cents if i'm putting up a car for sale)the car has run 38,000kms, so how much do u guys think it worth? Btw if i bring my car over via personal import, does it mean that i can still pass the inspection centre with all the mods like air intake, fuel pump, big injectors, fmic....? ;)

  • 1 month later...

I thought I would dig up this old thread

A "2001" model 260RS went thru the auctions today in JP

Only 15,000ks start bid was 2,500,000yen $28K

This would have to be one of the last WC34 Stagea 260RS I would think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...