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On Friday I had a wheel alignment done on my R33 GTS-T Series II and I attempted to get it as close as possible to Sydneykid’s recommended settings.

I cannot believe how these changes could change the behaviour of my car so much. It went form a Tokyo Drift special (sideways more of the time than not) to something that is heaps faster because it just puts the power down and does not go into power oversteer all of the time.

In the wet in a straight line it again just puts the power down with no wheel spin where before if would break traction at 2600 rpm in first, second and third and this is with 18 x 8’s all around.

This has changed what was a drift pig in the wet to something that you can drive heaps faster and be in total control. The funny part of this is that I was just having a wheel alignment done to see how bad the current settings were as I was going to buy one of Sydneykid’s suspension Group Buys. If it is this good with the stock suspension adjusted as close to his settings as we could get – how good will it be with the Bilsteins, adjustable roll bars and adjustable bushes – I cannot wait.

Sydneykid you are a legend!!!

post-24210-1153741427.jpg

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Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

I was able to achieve with my stock suspension:

Front Camber -1.20

Front Caster 6.35

SAI 9.10

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.20

Rear Toe 1.50 mm in on each side

These results are close to the recomendations and will require the adjustable bushes to get that last little bit. My ride heights are also close to the suggested levels of about 25mm lower than stock front ride height of 380mm with 365mm front and 355mm rear.

  • Like 1

If you dont mind me asking a few n00b questions

what is SAI?

and how do you measure ride height? distance from what to what?

and if SK just happens to find this thread

Whats the reasoning for

0 toe in the front and 2.00mm at the rear?

oh and isnt toe usually measures in degrees?

Toe in at the rear will help with keeping the car direction stable and whilst cornering will help the turning. I believe toe out on the rear induces unstable directioning and helps the rear end oversteer. Does that make sense?

If SK answers it the response will be alot more informative for sure :laugh:

If you dont mind me asking a few n00b questions

1 what is SAI?

2. and how do you measure ride height? distance from what to what?

and if SK just happens to find this thread

Whats the reasoning for

3. 0 toe in the front and 2.00mm at the rear?

4. oh and isnt toe usually measures in degrees?

Suggestions follow;

1. Steering axis of inclination ie; the point around which the front wheel rotates when the steering wheel is turned.

2. Centre of wheel to guard, that way it doesn't matter what diameter wheels you have or what size tyres.

3. Toe out is a destabilising setting and toe in is a stabilising setting. So, zero toe on the front is nicely in the middle. It means the car reacts to steering inputs, but not viciously as it would with toe out. But not dull as it would with toe in.

The rear toe in is to stabiliser the rear under power, pull it straight instead of excessive oversteer

4. Not when I do a wheel alignment, distance is the go for toe.

Hopefully that should give you some indication as to why the recommended settings are what they are.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • Like 1

Wouldnt skylines benefit from a bit of a bit of negative toe in the front?

I find that the front heavy weight distribution of skylines, causes some pushing understeer on the entry of a corner depending on the radius of a corner, how bad depends on the quality and size of the tyres. so wouldnt negative toe help with this problem? Is there a downside from running a bit of negative toe? e.g. stability powering out of a corner

Wouldnt skylines benefit from a bit of a bit of negative toe in the front?

I find that the front heavy weight distribution of skylines, causes some pushing understeer on the entry of a corner depending on the radius of a corner, how bad depends on the quality and size of the tyres. so wouldnt negative toe help with this problem? Is there a downside from running a bit of negative toe? e.g. stability powering out of a corner

The recommended settings use extra positive caster to fix the corner entry undsteer problem. You could use toe out, but it can cause tramlining. So it's more of a last resort on a road car, for a track car we use whatever is necessary of course.

:blink: cheers :P

"Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side"

are the settings the same for Stageas, Gary?

got to install the front caster bushes and have a wheel alignment next month.

cheers, Brendan

  • Like 1
"Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side"

are the settings the same for Stageas, Gary?

got to install the front caster bushes and have a wheel alignment next month.

cheers, Brendan

Hi Brendan, check the Stagea Group Buy thread for the recommended settings, the 4wd setting are different to the 2wd settings.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592

:( cheers :D

these settings good for a 32 aswell? Getting some stuff installed and possibly a wheel alignment on friday? Is it a waste of time getting a wheel alignment if the current 16's your using you plan to get rid of in favour for 17's?

these settings good for a 32 aswell? Getting some stuff installed and possibly a wheel alignment on friday? Is it a waste of time getting a wheel alignment if the current 16's your using you plan to get rid of in favour for 17's?

Same settings for R32GTST, R33GTST and R34GTT (GTR's are different).

Wheel size (width or diameter) is irrelevant.

:mellow: cheers :rofl:

Edited by Sydneykid
Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

I was able to achieve with my stock suspension:

Front Camber -1.20

Front Caster 6.35

SAI 9.10

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.20

Rear Toe 1.50 mm in on each side

These results are close to the recomendations and will require the adjustable bushes to get that last little bit. My ride heights are also close to the suggested levels of about 25mm lower than stock front ride height of 380mm with 365mm front and 355mm rear.

is this for 4wd or 2wd. does it matter

is this for 4wd or 2wd. does it matter

Same settings for R32GTST, R33GTST and R34GTT (GTR, GTS4 and Stagea are different)

Check out the Group Buy thread for your model, the recommended alignment settings are in the blue box with the parts list.

:( cheers :(

Same settings for R32GTST, R33GTST and R34GTT (GTR, GTS4 and Stagea are different)

Check out the Group Buy thread for your model, the recommended alignment settings are in the blue box with the parts list.

:( cheers :(

:( now i go get my alignment checked

Sydneykid's Recomendations are:

Front Camber -1.00

Front Caster 7.00

SAI 9.00

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.5

Rear Toe 2.00 mm in on each side

I was able to achieve with my stock suspension:

Front Camber -1.20

Front Caster 6.35

SAI 9.10

Front Toe 0.00

Rear Camber -0.20

Rear Toe 1.50 mm in on each side

These results are close to the recomendations and will require the adjustable bushes to get that last little bit. My ride heights are also close to the suggested levels of about 25mm lower than stock front ride height of 380mm with 365mm front and 355mm rear.

i dont really understan about wheel alignment, anyway can i just give this data to someone e.g. donellans, and let them do it?

sorry about this silly question :D

Great thread!

Just wondering if these settings are for any R32gtst, or only ones with the extra mods (ie castor bushes)? Atm I have stock suspension with aftermarket shocks/springs. Will I feel any benefit getting a wheel alignment with the above settings?

Im very interested...

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