Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

because the gearboxes between NA and Turbo are different...

hence a lot more little things need changing.

If the NA gearbox could be retained (i dont know how long it would/could last)

theoretically, you could just unbolt the engine from the gearbox, unplug all the wiring and accessories and undo the engine mounts and lift the engine out. replace it with det engine (using your old NA engine mounts) swap the ecu and fuel pump with ones from a 25det. rig up the intercooler and drive away...

i suggest you try and find out if keeping the r33 NA gearbox isnt a crazy idea first - could save a lot of money and extra work.

I was lucky to have DamqikGTST who lives only a few doors down offer his help (wouldnt have attempted it without him).

It wouldnt take long to do in a workshop with a hoist etc

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok back to the topic of supercharging(sorry to interupt) funkey monkey put forward this conversion.the easiest supercharger to bolt on is the Toyota 1GZE SC. Its made for a 2.5L straight 6 (or was that 2.0L) the only thing you have to do is get a custom manifold fabricated. Smack on an GTR intercooler and a cold air intake and you've got a 50% power increase.

would anyone have a rough idea on what this would cost.....can get a decent sized fmic for like 500 so what would the other prices be??

lol that's exactly what i was gonna do (b4 i decided to get the GTR)

manifold costs about $800 to fabricate from scratch. Supercharger costs about $250 from a local wrecker. Intercooler will set you back about $800 or so for a GTR intercooler. Add about $500 for labour and piping. and ther's ya supercharged skyline, ready to much stock GTSt's 4 breakfast :P

neoGT-25

jus readign back... u sed insurance stopped u from turbo'ing... i think insurance companies stop you from forced induction... which includes supercharging.

an SC like the 1GZE SC wouldn't affect the internals mucly, its like putting the stock turbo on a GTSt onto the engine, its sorta built to withstand it. As for exhaust n stuff, you'd have increased back pressure, but you don't new headers or anything, coz its a sc

you need to relocate the airconditioning system, that's about it. doesn't take much. One of my mates who's a mechanic drew up a diagram where it goes almost in the same spot as the turbo, its feasable... i'd scan it but i dunno where i put the scrap piece of paper.

it does sound like a more unique option and a bigger "WOW" effect ......

ok .... so we've heard all the "goods" about sc option, what about the down sides to the sc option???apart from costs.... will the engine deteriorate faster then a turboed car, cos its not really made for forced induction?? or are the extra stresses put on the NA engine still within the NA'z limits???

also back to the gear box disscussion....... i gots an 96' R33 ser.II GTS4, hows the gear box in those cars??.. are they the same as the RB25DE(RWD) n RB20DE????.... i just thought being a 4WD car it might be stronger???? maybe?? i dunno????

Originally posted by funkymonkey

...............As for exhaust n stuff, you'd have increased back pressure, but you don't new headers or anything, coz its a sc

so does this mean u might need to down size the exhaust???

sorry if this sounds like a stoopid question.......my bad:rolleyes:

dunno about compression changes, I gave up investigating it when I decided to buy the GTR...

No what I meant is, as the SC setup didn't affect the way my extractors worked, (Ie have exhaust run thr the turbine like a turbo) I could keep the extractors that I already had. I already have aftermarket Fujitsubo extractors on mine worth about 1.5k so I'm not too keen on gettin rid of em. Hence why I was lookin at SC's coz they're less complicated and need less modifications than a turbocharger.

If you really want, buy my car and I'll help u supercharge it :)

u might need to upsize the exhaust, just like if you were puttin a turbo on.

A supercharger does the EXACT same thign a turbo charger does, except a supercharger is driven by a belt attached to the engine, and the Turbocharger is driven by exhaust gasses spinning the turbine.

Everything else is the same, you still need an intercooler to cool the air b4 induction (altho on an SC its not essential), and you still need a bigger exhaust to get rid of the increased byproducts of combustion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...