Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yesterday i changed the upper and lower radiator hoses(very old) the radiator cap and the thermostat.... took it for a drive and thrashed it a little !! but the car still seened to be getting quiet hot ...... and after i unplugged the heat sensor and put it bak in the heat said half in the guage,,,, something is a miss and i just cant figure it out !! sensor? head? and there doesnt seem to be a build up of pressure on the hoses?? me is a little lost .... have i done something wrong ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/
Share on other sites

Obvious question is did u put the thermostat in the right way and did u get the right one?

Are u using an overflow bottle with the rad?

Is the coolant level stayin constant?

If all ok replace the water temp sensor.

hey thanks for the reply, air flow bottle?

coolant seems to be staying level now, and yes the thermostat is thew correct one and its in the same way the other one came out !! im hopeing it isnt the water pump... could that also be it !! and i was planning on doing the water temp sensor on the weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2359920
Share on other sites

how do you know it's overheating?

The "normal" position on the stock temp gauge will sometimes change when you install a thermostat that opens at a different temperature.

Perhaps get an aftermarket water temp gauge to see where you're actually at more accurately

Anyway, if it's definantly overheating and you've ruled out the thermostat, then it's probably the water pump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2360072
Share on other sites

how do you know it's overheating?

The "normal" position on the stock temp gauge will sometimes change when you install a thermostat that opens at a different temperature.

Perhaps get an aftermarket water temp gauge to see where you're actually at more accurately

Anyway, if it's definantly overheating and you've ruled out the thermostat, then it's probably the water pump.

ok, but if it was the water pump wouldnt the car idle differntly? ot would the cur run differently? cause the car still kicks well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2361769
Share on other sites

it would idle the same

try driving it without the thermostat but of the bearing in the pump is f**ked it fan wont keep running straight, it wont run true to the engine

my mates fan smashed 2 radiators before he fixed his pump, bearing was screwed and the fan moved enough to foul on the radiator (r31 skyline, same shaped pump with more fins inside)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2361934
Share on other sites

Obvious question is did u put the thermostat in the right way and did u get the right one?

Are u using an overflow bottle with the rad?

Is the coolant level stayin constant?

If all ok replace the water temp sensor.

ok the coolant isnt staying constant, it builds up in the overflow, and ends up being like 2 inches hight then it was b4 driving it !! im not driveing iit to the stage of it over heating !! just been taking it on test drives ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2362015
Share on other sites

ok further info !! was doing a little more work on the car today !! took it for a drive !! still doesnt seem to be much pressure in the radiator hoses?? car is running fine !1 ideling fine, but AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS OF DRIVEING the heat started to rise !! the overflow keeps filling to the stage where its about to overflow?? im starting to get worried... :teehee: its starting to look like the waterpump i think??

if so how much is a good estimate for the pump and work ?? anyhelp would be benifical

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2365119
Share on other sites

Pumps have been known to rot out the impeller blades because idiot (previous / Japanese) owners don't use proper coolant.

Pump is around $100. Job takes a (leisurely) couple of hours.

You need to remove the radiator, so while it is out, get it thoroughly cleaned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2365779
Share on other sites

Pumps have been known to rot out the impeller blades because idiot (previous / Japanese) owners don't use proper coolant.

Pump is around $100. Job takes a (leisurely) couple of hours.

You need to remove the radiator, so while it is out, get it thoroughly cleaned.

cool thanks for that... i think that job is a little passed my knowledge, so i might have to look into getting it done bysomeone....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2366737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'm going to have to keep ignoring the 4.7 update, or whatever version it is? Poop. I was hoping you'd put me out of my misery.
    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
×
×
  • Create New...