Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking of upgrading to a new standalone ecu for a r33 gtst.

I just wanted to know if anyone has heard about the new microtech which is compatable with the skyline loom. Is it a complete plug in like the Apexi PFC? Also if anyone knows what the tuning capabilities of it is. I beleive it is the same as the microtech lt-12, (fuel curve ignition etc). I also would like to know if anyone is running a microtech in their skyline and how it behaves (revs, stalling, aircon etc).

Any information would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/
Share on other sites

Another option to consider is the Wolf 3d V4 plug-in. Uses the same loom as factory, has alot of tuning options, (can't be bothered listing 'em), and the distributor/manufactuer are in Bayswater, Melb., Vic.

Just got my car done and it is great, i would recommend it personally. Only a small bug with the idle (that is related to tunning not product fault), just needs a bit more fuel.

If you want to meet up and have a look at the unit, install and booklet, just pm me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-238376
Share on other sites

Go the Power FC for sure.

Else go for an Autronic.

I know there are a lot of mechanics that like the Microtech but it is cheap and for a quality ECU the autronic is it. It even has self tune functionality. I didnt buy the Autronic because at that time the Autronic didnt have an adaptor loom for the GTS25t.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-246288
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

buy whatever suites best for your pocket, most of the ECU out in the market are pretty good.

20x20 map resolution is all you need really (POWER FC) for an everyday application, i mean the there are crazy jap cars that run power fc & produce crazy figures, so dont buy something over map resolution.

it doesnt really matter how many maps resolution its more of how well it can be applied to its usage from what ive been told by an engineer/dyno tuner, unless u want to throw away that air flow meter & get it maped sensed (MoTEC)

Hope this helps abit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-263036
Share on other sites

Of course you are right there.

& alot of japs do it because they like that no filter & pipe look, which does more harm then good in my point of view.

what do you mean by powerful engine?

i know a gtr which produces more then 300kw & are still using AFM

MAP sensor are not that great with twin turbos.

We are geting off topic here but its a good debatable question.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-263256
Share on other sites

Afm's are good for a stable idle control PERIOD they are restrictive and just a pain in the arse to maintain,

Map however are good for what ever power level and Boost they are bad at idle control because there is very little vac or boost to trigger it however this can be tuned out using TPS tuning for low revs if the ecu supports it Both wolf and Microtec do! also so dose the GTS link (which I currently have in my car) Map by far is better in the long run as most skylines wont drive at less that 2000rpm anyway.

MY 2 Cents

Damqik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-263860
Share on other sites

Guest drift_me_silly

da wolf sounds pretty poo to me (translation=good)

inbuilt MAP sensor? sweet...........get those AFM's out of the turbo's way...the japanese really believe in the MAP...not just the turbo rebuild, and the crappy tasting drink...and the smooooth smooooth roads...

look at it this way: maf is like saying map with a speech disorder, so that can't be good for your engine, can it? hhmmmm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-268004
Share on other sites

Originally posted by RON-15H

hey DAMQIK i think ive seen ya around you have that bluishh rare colour skyline rite car looks neat....

You would of only seen me in Brisbane or on the Sunshine Coast the car hasn't been anywhere else in the 2 and a half years that I've had it.

My Car is that two tone dark blue and gun metal grey.

Even though I'm running a map sensor I still have the maf and the stock-modified air box fitted to the car so I can switch back to the stock ecu in case I stuff the tuning on the link out driveing somewhere (I tend to fiddle always looking for that bit more power) it would take me 3 minutes to get the car running on the stock ecu again.

I also run an on dash Lamda meter to keep a check on air/fuel mixtures, makes on the road tuning easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12806-aftermarket-ecu/#findComment-269354
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...