Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Driving home tonight gave it a squirt in first put it into second, full throttle and then when it came onto full boost I hear BANG and the whole car jerks and theirs a massive rattle sound coming from the gearbox,

I quickly pulled over and turned the car off had a look underneath to see if anything was fallen off or anything but coudlnt see anything out of the ordinary, got back in the car started it, MASSIVE rattling sound coming from the gearbox on idle even when the car was in neutral, car very hard to get into gear, took off in first took off very hard just that massive constant rattle, everytime I tried to put it into second I just get a massive bang and the whole car jerks and it wont go in so I managed to baby the car home in 3rd (with that loud rattling noise still going constantly seems to ease up a bit when the clutch it put all the way in and the car is idling)

Ive booked a tow for the morning to get the car to a workshop but does it seem like the gearbox is gone?

Why do these things happen at the worst times was just preparing to put my new turbo on and fix some other things on the car :cheers:

Edited by Dave69001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128343-did-i-just-kill-my-gearbox/
Share on other sites

if it's at idle (in neutral), its likely that it's the clutch and not the gearbox

because obviously nothing in the gearbox should be moving in neutral

does it still make the sound if you push the clutch pedal in?

Hmm hopefully thats what it is mate I just replaced the clutch with a heavy duty one 2 months ago though so not sure why it would of caused this.

Yeah it does seem to go away if you put the clutch in and its idling but when I was babying it home whenever I put the clutch in as the car was going along it would still do it but I guess the gearbox would still have things moving if the cars moving right?

Edited by Dave69001
Sounds like the g/box is gone, when in neutral the main shaft still turns . The only time it doesn't is when the car is not moving and clutch pedal pushed in.

you learn something new everyday!

thanks for clearing that up :cheers:

to put it plain and simple:

if your car is rolling (clutch in OR out)- there will be a section of the gearbox that is moving.

if the clutch pedal is out, and its in neutral (regardless of rolling or not rolling) there will be a different section of the gearbox thats moving.

to get a very good understanding of how gearboxes work i reccomend this link:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

your description to me sounds like your gearbox has been raped.

my condolences for your loss (as much as i like to be right, i hope im wrong). i hate it when bad shit happens to pride and joys.

cheers. james.

EDIT: took me so long to write this up, your question has been answered before i finished! but atleast i supplied a good link! cheers.

Dude if you are upgrading to a bigger turbo I would change to an R33 gearbox as 20 ones are fairly weak. Is a bit more expensive but better in the long run as its 1 less thing to worry about busting all the time.

Shit bad luck dave and you haven't even been able to put my turbo on yet!! :P

Although R33 boxes are stronger, I can't see the need to upgrade to one unless your pulling some decent figures already, and plan to take the car alot further power wise.

FRom what i've been told you need the g/box itself obviously, approx $1500, get it fitted, and i'm pretty sure you also need a custom made tailshaft, and alot of other crap to get it working.. it's a costly exercise, but you would never have to worry about breaking the box again!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...