Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR/Gts-t Fujisubu 3" cat back - $350

Greddy Electrical Boost and Exhaust temp Gauges with warning lights and recall - $300 for both

HKS Step 1 Bolt In CAMS 256 9.1 IN and EXT - $700 - SOLD

R32 GTR Block, good condition - $700

R32 GTR Crank, Spun bearing on number 6 needs maching, no cracks - $300

R32 GTR Rods in Very good condition - $400

R32 GTR Pistons in perfect condition - Make a offer

R32 GTR Standard Head Gasket, brand new - $100

18x9 IMPUL RS rims with DISH, good 80% 255 tyres all round - $1600 - SOLD

Denso 550cc Injectors (Top feed) * 6 - $500 - SOLD

OS Giken twin plate clutch for R32/33 in good nick (Currently handling a 400rwhp GTR fine) - $600 - SOLD

Greddy Profec B Spec 1 (Big solenoid) - $350 - SOLD

600x300x76 Bar and Plate cooler with GTR end tanks - $250

R32 Gts-t or S13 5 bolt axle 2-way mech diff - $800 - SOLD

Nismo LM RS580 - $1900 - SOLD

R32/33 GTR Apexi Power FC with hand controller - $850 - SOLD

OS Giken twin plate clutch (T2CD) for R32/33 etc rated at 600hp in good nick $700 - SOLD

Apexi Power intake for R32 GTR (like new) - $200 - SOLD

SMS me on 0422426866

Edited by Cerbera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128403-r3233-gtr-and-r32-gts-t-parts/
Share on other sites

R32/33 GTR Apexi Power FC with hand controller $850

R32 GTR/Gts-t Fujisubu 3" cat back $400

R32 Gts-t or S13 5 bolt axle 2-way mech diff $800

OS Giken twin plate clutch (T2CD) for R32/33 etc rated at 600hp in good nick $700

SMS me on 0422426866

How about pics of the OS clutch?

Plate condition

Clamp load etc

ill try and get some pics of the clutch for you. its in good condition, i was going to use it in my gtr but now i need something a lot stronger. plates are straight with heaps of meat. my mate bought it second hand from japan from a reputable dealer and it has not been in a car since it got here.

im in perth with the power fc but i can send over to you at the right price

Edited by Cerbera

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...