Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm keen to hear any thoughts people have on how to get the best quality sound in the front of an R33. I'm keen on maintaining a standard appearance, so no kick panels etc. Will be putting the midwoofers in the standard door location (although if there's a good way to mount them so they don't get muffled by the door trim i'm all ears) and the tweeters can go anywhere unobtrusive.

If anyone has pics of their front speaker installations I'd love some ideas!! :P

im keen to see what people say as i will be looking at getting some tweeties soon,

some guy said its best to mount the tweeters opposite the accelerator and then the same on the opposite side, this means both are somewhat balanced at a distance away from your head.

do amped splits require sound deadening behind door skins!?

To start off, make adapters for your new speakers out of mdf, and make sure they're mounted and secured properly. I personally prefer wood over plastic as i like to think it's more sturdy. This shouldn't be hard as long if you don't pick overly thick mdf. Just make sure the speaker clears the window and door trim fine before putting everything together. Then you'd probably want to use some sound deadener in the doors to get rid of rattles. Not much more to it really. Ideally you want the speakers in some sort of enclosure but that's hard to do while trying to keep everything looking stock.

Edited by govich

do this:

remake the original spacer in MDF to suit waht you are fitting. sound deaden the inner skin of the door and the outer skin of the door. tweeters can be put in the kick panels or on the a pillar if you can find the panel for it (S2 33 had tweeters there.)

from there put as much power and you can on htem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...