Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would the apexi exhaust control valve work with the blitz nur spec exhaust cat back or only for apexi products?

ive emailed nengun about my concern...but just thought id get an opinion from my fellow skyliners :P

info can be found here about the ECV

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/239

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128643-apexi-exhaust-control-valve/
Share on other sites

you'd be better off just putting a silencer in the rear, like what most systems come with. no cutting, and much cheaper.

thats what i was thinking but for some reason the blitz nur spec dosnt come with one...at least the one im buying....

do i have to call blitz "japan"

and if i do get a silencer.....how much would it restrict my power?

hrmmmm.....maybe im better off getting a different cat back.....any suggestions?

i know of the HKS Silent HiPower one.....but i like a deep sounding note to my exhausts....how silent is the hks one?

Edited by anDru

I had the same exhuast, it still failed EPA with the silencer in by 2db... i had to install another resinator into the system either that or install a mid muffler.

By installing the silencer your car will aslo stop making power at a certain rwkw like mine did..

man thats shiet........do u still have the thing isntalled? what is the legal amount of db we can have...and how much is the blitz nur spec without restrictions?

Edited by anDru

noise and restriction are proportionate. I don't care what anyone says about their quiet system that doesn't cause a restriction.

Basically, it will be more restrictive if you make it quieter. The question is HOW MUCH that restriction affects your GIVEN POWER OUTPUT.

Personally, I run a straight 3" pipe. Most possible power, minimum possible restriction.

BTW, I have an ecv in my car. It's very restrictive. The car feels like it accelerates about half as fast. you can watch the revs climb if you stamp it, and it is really choking. Whereas, in first, if I normally floor it, the rev needle just smacks straight up to the red.

Regarding the rear plug in silencer (buttplug), i find mine to be quite restrictive like the ecv.

Regarding the centre muffler - refer to my first point regarding noise and restriction.

btw, ecv is not 200

firstly, it's 300$. you need the 81mm version if you have a 3" exhaust.

Then you need an exhaust shop to cut off one of your flanges, then weld in the ecv.

It's u to you whether you want to quieten it down. personally, i want it as loud as possible.

Why do you want the Blitz?

The Trust Power Extreme II is very quiet but still gives off an awesome growl when you give it to it. I believe it is also 88dB alone (stock dump + front pipe) as well, so all legal. (Info from Trust site)

Edited by ToF

Dont waste your time with the apexi evc i hav it and had nothing but problems with it so its now wired fully open.. spend the extra cash and get yourself a legal exhaust system.. best iv seen are CES exhaust systems in brisbane.. they will hav a system in stock to suit your car and guarentee legal db's and 20+kw gain...

Why do you want the Blitz?

The Trust Power Extreme II is very quiet but still gives off an awesome growl when you give it to it. I believe it is also 88dB alone (stock dump + front pipe) as well, so all legal. (Info from Trust site)

well blitz is the only one ive herd from ppl with a very nice sound. if the trust power extememe 2 is as good as u say id be more then happi to get one.

thanks for ur input guys......i guess the ECV is out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...