Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

just after some help on what turbos people here have choosen to upgrade their RB20.

i know people say upgrade to the RB25 turbo but i was wanting more.

i was after something which spools quickly as i am after some quick...

would something like a GT2530/35 be any good???

also what is the standard RB20 turbo?

any info would be sweet.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128947-rb20-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Different people have different ideas about how radical they want to go....

An HKS 2530 will spool about the same as the original turbo, but you can run much higher boost because it does not have the problem of the fragile ceramic turbine wheel. The 2530 is also more efficient at higher pressure ratios, and has higher maximum airflow than the original turbo.

The problem is, these 2530 turbos are now getting very old and HKS don't make them anymore. A secondhand one may be worn out or stuffed.

But HKS are about to bring out a brand new replacement for the 2530 which is 2006 state of the art technology, called the GT-ZZ. The dealers do not have them yet, but maybe in a month or two, who knows ???

Latest technology with turbos, is like latest technology with computers, always better and advancing very rapidly as time goes on.

Not always....

The old design turbos all had a much narrower flow range, so turbo matching was a lot more critical, a little bit too big, and it WOULD be a lag monster. Too small and there would be no top end airflow.

What the latest technology turbos have is a vastly wider flow range, as well as less inertia and a higher overall efficiency.

So you can now fit a larger turbo and get more airflow without losing anything in response or boost threshold. Or you can downsize slightly and get a massive improvement in response and mid range, without losing anything up top. It may not have much extra horsepower to brag about, but it will make a much faster and easier to drive road car.

Don't just think about turbo size, think also about flow range. The latest in turbo technology is always going to beat the older turbo designs in every way.

so if the RB20DET is laggy, what causes the lag?

is it because the throttle body is right in the middle of the rocker cover?

so with a front mount is has a long pipe from the cooler to the throttle body?

no.

2L capacity = not much exhast gas being produced to spool the turbo at low rpm. this means the turbo comes on slowly

larger capacity engines produce more exhaust gas, thus find it easier to spin the exhaust wheel and can generate boost quicker...

TB has nothing to do with it, and length of cooler pipes makes sweet f*** all difference also.

mmm.. you will find cooler piping does make a noticeable difference.

A top mount cooler running f**k all piping will seem quiet more responsive and less laggy, where as a large say 3' piping onto a fmic will obviously have more lag as the air has to travel further to get into the motor!

It wont be huge but its noticable!

In regards to the turbo you should get sh*t all lag with a HKS 25/10!

A 25/30 will be more similar to a stock turbo and can flow up to 280rwhp (with supporting mods),

Anything bigger and you really start to notice lag, which wen you run around with a low compression 2l motor isnt the best lol

Edited by jazza08

so you have noticed this yourself, on your own car?

or are you writing from keyboard experience?

i went from the stock cooler to a larger FMIC with 2.75" piping and noticed no difference in lag. i think and change would be minimal and not noticable...

from my experience, its right in theory but doesn't really translate in the real world...

I noticed a bit of lag since i put my cooler on yesterday, but more top end...

and VL turbo flutter... cho cho cho cho cho :thumbsup: love it

Im thinking turbo upgrade too. My theory is best bang for buck, with 25% more flow, better top end and more boost. r33 turbo for $350 is best bang for buck in my eyes. spending over a grand on a turbo for a low teens car dosent appeal to me very much.....

i had stok cooler came on boost mad 2nd gear peelin on boost

went to 3inch mandrel from exhaust technology with hybrid cooler f*k me lag monster but yeh top pulls way harder !

mates cefiro same so yes lag is big issue with cooler pipes

ok then...

if i got a standard R33 turbo hi-flowed etc could i get it turned into a ball bearing turbo?

or will it remain standard bush bearing/roller bearing?

and would the internal wheel be changed to a steel wheel or stay ceramic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...