Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dudez, just got my car back fromt the dyno shop yesterday

it made 153.6rwkw. happy with that.

mods done so far:

FMIC

Pod

3" turbo back exhaust

turbotech bleed valve @12psi

now the afrs were at 14.1, which is high i know.

i am getting an ecu remap done hopefully this week by dr.drift

now my question is: this will obviously correct my afr reading, yes?

is it wise to get an SAFC-II to monitor all the afrs etc, etc??

thanks for your help in advance

cheers

jabba

cant get my dyno grpah up yet, but will try soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129309-my-dyno-results-and-few-questions/
Share on other sites

14 is very lean. suspect fuel pump on the way out.

dr drift will sort out the afr's. no need for safc.

it wont help you monitor the afrs.

once the tune has been done it will be sweet and afrs should be spot.

it should be near 12 on max load. 14 is too lean on max load

U need a SAFC 2 to richen/lean up a mixture and urs is pretty lean.

I hope 14.1 is at cruise and not a WOT, because its hella lean, should be around 12 AFR, so u may need a SAFC 2 to richen up the mixture

14 is very lean. suspect fuel pump on the way out.

dr drift will sort out the afr's. no need for safc.

it wont help you monitor the afrs.

once the tune has been done it will be sweet and afrs should be spot.

it should be near 12 on max load. 14 is too lean on max load

yeh, ray at re customs told me either an safc2 or dr drift remap

ok, ill probably go with dr drift then

cheers

Just curious as to reasons why he got 20 kilowatts more than me..

I have exactly the same mods as him (and a walbro) and i got only 135kw (was expecing 150 with a 34 turbo next week), would my far lower readings be because of different dyno setup or because of general engine wear? The guy at dr drift told me my engine was fine and my afr's were sweet so.. Just wondering.

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

If thats at wide open throttle then save your money and put a new Bosch 040 fuel pump in there. Dont use a Walmart Walboro, dont use a 2nd hand GTR fuel pump, get something like a 040.

Odds are you will find the A/F are corrected back to the overly rich Jap tune, and you have saved your money because you havent had the remap done or SAFC bought and tuned

yeah remap will get it spot on. should be a lot safer and might get some more midrange into it. if it is in fact 14 on max load you shouldnt be flogging it on the street.

i dont generally flog it anyways

might be going to sams tonite

im sure if he looks at the dyno graph he can see whats wrong

fuel pump is coming very soon

thanks for your help

keep it comming

There is no point getting it tuned with a f**ked fuel pump a chip or SAFC or whatever wont be able to get the fuel in if there is no fuel in the rail.

Discrepancies in power can sometimes be different aged AFM distorting the airflow signal, but mostly due to differnent dyno's.

i said id let sam look at first, then we will decide from there.

im not going to replace a pump if i dont need to.

been thru this shit b4 with ppl (not from here) saying its definatley this and that, when it turns out to be something else, you know what i mean?

nah i understand ash, but i just can go by word of mouth anymore

i know you are very knowledgeable and you know your shit, so im not denying that it could be a fuel pump.

im just going to take it to someone who knows his shit...

thanks ash

jabba

one step ahead of ya lol

i am ringing sam when i finish work to make sure its cool to pop past tonite

ill keep yas posted

not denying its the fuel pump, which it could be, thats why its going to a professional

cheers

just do the fuel pump anyway and/or chnage the fuel filter at least....15 y.o and probably got the orig. fuel filter....filter should only cost u $20 to change - from memory its in a easy spot to change. funny enough it was a job I had planned for the w/e.

ok to everyone that said fuel pump, well done.

you guys are spot on. i never doubted you guys but i just wanted sam to check

its booked in for tonite to get the pump and ecu mod done.

ash, i booked it in for a dyno tune and power run. did the best he could.

happy with the power result, but not happy about the AFR's

so thanks with your help guys, appreciate it

cheers

jabba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...