Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know a lot of you guys would have alarms on your cars, but what extra steps do you take to try and prevent people from driving away with your car???? Like pulling something off the engine or installing a kill switch somewhere on the car. I have an alarm, imobaliser, club lock but still feel like i need something more....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129373-extra-step-from-crims/
Share on other sites

I know a lot of you guys would have alarms on your cars, but what extra steps do you take to try and prevent people from driving away with your car???? Like pulling something off the engine or installing a kill switch somewhere on the car. I have an alarm, imobaliser, club lock but still feel like i need something more....

laser guns

taser_side_mirror_small.JPG

Edited by Driver

I was away for 3 weeks recently and left my car parked unattended. I'm guessing you have a s2 r33 so dunno how this would work, i have a s1, with external ignitor so i took that off and put cling wrap over the plugs (to stop moisture getting in) - only 4 screws hold it in place. They cant drive the car off unless they have a replacement one handy hehe.... can still push/tow it tho if they are really enthusiastic.

I know a lot of you guys would have alarms on your cars, but what extra steps do you take to try and prevent people from driving away with your car???? Like pulling something off the engine or installing a kill switch somewhere on the car. I have an alarm, imobaliser, club lock but still feel like i need something more....

The measures you have are all deterents and preventative measures...if they really want your car, they will get to it by hook or by crook if they can't start it they'll take it away on a flatbed.. One of the things I am very particular about is where I park. Choose your spots well and you should be fine. I'd drive around a carpark for half an hour if I have to jst to find the spot I want (close to shopping center entrances, where there are heaps of passers by etc...). And never park out on the road overnight if you can help it. Oh and hidden kill switch helps if you want to go that extra mile. :)

As all of the above are great ideas, most dont have good toilet training...

Trick is to make your car the least or less unattrative to steal.

So HIDE EVERYTHING. Cds, amps, anything and everything. Even loose change. Do not have anything visible, turbo timers etc as well. Steering wheel cover for a sports wheel. That will stop the smash and grab, or the 'this is easy to nick' people.

Park it where its hard to get. Multi level carpark for instance, no flat bed is getting in there is it. Park next to walls, means only one side of the car can get damaged by another car.

A good alarm also helps. Better yet, get your own wheel clamps. And put a parking ticket on the window. Whos going to steal that!

As all of the above are great ideas, most dont have good toilet training...

Trick is to make your car the least or less unattrative to steal.

So HIDE EVERYTHING. Cds, amps, anything and everything. Even loose change. Do not have anything visible, turbo timers etc as well. Steering wheel cover for a sports wheel. That will stop the smash and grab, or the 'this is easy to nick' people.

Park it where its hard to get. Multi level carpark for instance, no flat bed is getting in there is it. Park next to walls, means only one side of the car can get damaged by another car.

A good alarm also helps. Better yet, get your own wheel clamps. And put a parking ticket on the window. Whos going to steal that!

hahahaah Nice I love it :) thank for the input guys.

Alarm & Immobiliser

Kill Switch or 2

Park in visible spot

Park in between two concrete pilons or by a wall

Turn the wheels full lock if gone for a long time*

Steering Lock when exiting car; make it lock up

Club lock

Removable Steering Wheel

Chain in Wheel/s

* If they were to hit your car with a flat bed; the full lock would slow them down a bit (hopefully long enough for someone to realize what's going on)

direct wire to battery, and pull the extra 30v fuse...... no power to fuel pump = car wont start !

:wave:

edit: a local ezipark car park here in adelaidew had a car totally stripped clean late last year... was parked in an area the camera couldnt see.......................... they reckon it would have taken hrs to strip it. Doors, seats, wheels, electronics, etc etc etc

Edited by Tangles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...