Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A week ago one of my headlights went out for no apparent reason as I just got new head bulbs... I thought ok... will fix soon.

Tonight as turned on my headlights, the second headlight went out too, it came on for half a second then went out! So now I only have driving lights working.

Wtf? lol

Im gonna try and put back my stock head light bulbs on tomorrow as I have aftermerket Jap headlight bulbs...

Anyway any ideas wtf is goin on?

Those headlights were roughly 8 weeks old.

Edited by Sir-D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129611-both-headlights-went-out-now/
Share on other sites

first thing to check is the fuses. Chuck in the head light bulbs and then change the fuse.

Go turn on the head lights and see what happens, if they pop the fuse straight away it means that its shorting out somewhere. Either you have exposed wires or you have added some electronic gizmo recently which isnt wired in properly.

or are the new headlights the same as stock 12V / 55W ?

Yep, I can. haahah, any lighting questions, I am the sau guru.

Fuses are in the boot. in the battery compartment. pop off the cover.

It just takes normal 20cent blade fuses. Check them.

Have a look at the actual bulb itself. If you're not sure, take a good quality pic of both bulbs and post it up, i'll tell you if it's blown.

Chris

for an r33 s2 they are under the bonnet in the fuse box on the left hand side, there should be 1 fuse for left head light and 1 fuse for right head light, both are 20amp fuses, change these and you should be on your way.

you can get them from super cheap auto for about 2bux for a pack of 10 or so

Check the switch - they are a known problem in Skylines.

You can test the bulbs (you still haven't given any detail of the actual bulb) by running them directly off the battery for a few seconds.

Ok my head bulbs fried... funny cos they were MTEC, Japanese brand and only had them for under 2 months.

I fitted my old ones in and they were fine...I didnt know u need to have them inserted all the way in to test... +ve and -ve.

PS yes the fuses are under the bonnet, not in the back Manwhor3.

if they're those ones that have a blue coating on the lens then they probably overheated because the blue coating blocks light and turns it into heat, rather than radiating 99.9% of the light as a conventional clear-glass globe would do.

get a set of narva plus 50's and forget about all that cool white, HID look-alike crap!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...