Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VL turbo is an RB30DET (correct me if I am wrong).

So, if the models go the same as the other RB range, non turbo would be RB30DE...

thats what i thought, i thought it would be rb30de

but apparently the rb30de is something completely different....

the picture below is a rb30de i believe

post-11625-1155198308.jpg

Edited by Tebie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129692-vl-commo-engine/#findComment-2399279
Share on other sites

thats what i thought, i thought it would be rb30de

but apparently the rb30de is something completely different....

the picture below is a rb30de i believe

well, its a DE, not sure what capacity

the rocker cover is from a ECCS red top rb20 though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129692-vl-commo-engine/#findComment-2399294
Share on other sites

ok guys let me set a few thing straight

the rb20 head doesn't bolt straight onto the rb30 block, and it doesn't even have enough flow anyway to do so

theoretically an rb30de is an rb30 block with an rb25de head on it

people put heads from rb25/26 on rb30 blocks, you can't from the 20 without modding, but why would you anyway it's too small

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129692-vl-commo-engine/#findComment-2399468
Share on other sites

Power is close to limited around the 350rwkw mark for the SOHC RB30ET (without going nuts on it in the first place). To get over this the DOHC heads from the RB25 and RB26 (even though I haven't seen a 26 on one as yet in real life). But in saying that cams are important.

Either way, you can make plenty of power with the SOHC RB30ET head, but if you're aiming for the 400rwkw + while allowing the engine to live a different head will be required along with selected cams etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129692-vl-commo-engine/#findComment-2400383
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
    • Ah the car is a complete shitbox and not even worth a respray lol, for a professional to do it would probably cost 15k because of all of the dings and stufd but I was keen for a side project. Also solved the problem of being bored haha. But with the rust yeah I can always fix that in the future, not a huge issue for me. I found out yesterday that when a dent is created a high spot is created around it (the crown) and to fix it I either need to tap the edges or just sand over it. Which is what made my filler work a bit confusing originally lol.
    • That's some useful information to have , it would be great if we had more local suppliers .
×
×
  • Create New...