Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All.

It's a bit urgent. I once stumbled upon a generic intercooler install on the site somewhere; I think it was in PDF format, showing how to install an intercooler on an R33. AND now I can't find it.

Can someone please help, if they have one post it up or PM me? PLEASE.

Hi guys, has anyone got a version of the instalation manual scanned or a coppy they can send me through, i recived my kit form CRD wich is absolutly fantastic, i will post pics.

Only thing, no instructions, i know it's a generic type but i need to see where to cut the hole.

Can somone give me some hints as to where the whole needs to go for the piping and cooler.

URGENT.

Here you go.

Got it off the Hybrid site but can't find it now.

Can't remember is it was hybrid of HDI or some other name they go under.

Good luck.

I've posted some pics up somewhere to if you wanna check em out.

In the Forced Induction i think

Intercooler_Installation_GTSt.pdf

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

No nipple on mine either. Just extend the hose and T-Piece it into your vacuum hose off your blow off valve. What kit have you got?

yeah i have the CRD kit which is same as HYBRID. The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

I simply drilled and tapped my main cast pipe and scrwed in a nipple connection for the hose, no probs so far.

The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

Can you elaborate on this a bit for me? Reasons why?

The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

yess there is an ARC side mounted one, that replaces the stock unit, or you can get a R34 GTT side one if you are only going to have 200kW or so. But ARC also do a front mount that uses stock piping, do a search and something should come up.

VERY pricy though, R44 GTT much cheaper.

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

Pretty sure any FMIC install will have to take a bit out of the reinforcement bar. Give it a shot. I did mine and I had never used an angle grinder before.

  • 2 weeks later...
The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

I did this over the weekend and boost is coming on a bit quicker now. I just thought i weas experiencing extra turbo lag when I intsalled the FMIC but it looks like the turbo takes a bit longer to boost up when the connection is made after (?) the throttle

Cheers Wog.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...