Jump to content
SAU Community

Series One Or Two!?!?!?!

bilbo117
 Share

Recommended Posts

bilbo117 Rising Star

bilbo117

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys...

Im in a little bit of a dilemna. i need to know how to tell for sure that my engine is a series one motor.

I have a 94 model r33 gtst, and ordered myself some splitfire coilpacks a couple of months ago.

anyhow, upon receiving them, and for the first time looking for my igniter pack... i realised i dont have one....

This would usually be a sure sign its a series 2 right? I never thought 94 models come with series 2 motors but?

The coilpacks look exactly the same as the ones in there now so i dont really understand why the wouldnt work?

Thanks for your time guys,

EDIT: Pictures added below

Cheers.

Edited by bilbo117
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129854-series-one-or-two/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

it could just be that the coils had been changed to series 2 coils.

the easiest way to tell the difference in the motors is the TPS. if it is rectangular and only has 1 plug then it is a series 1. if it has a rounder TPS and has 2 plug (only 1 may be hooked up) then it is a series 2.

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

The series 1.5 also uses blue stickered 3 pin afm...

Series 2 coil packs have the ignitor on them which you can tell by the addition of a step on the series 2 coils that has IB G +1 on them like in this picture i took

cidf1ca5pmuwvvd6.th.jpg

The Series 1 coils do not have this step as the ignitor is on the engines valley cover.

If your car is a 94 model then you should require Series 1 coils with model number SF-DIS-001

As Series 2 coils were only put on cars after January 1995 on the late model series 1.5 model number SF-DIS-005

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

Series 1.5

The coils you have in the engine at the moment appear to be series 2 coils that have the ignitor on board the coilpack.

Pretty rare that they are in a skyline so early.

This is more than likely why you were sent series 1 coils.

Do the current coils have a carbon rod inside instead of the little copper coil like the splitfires do? As these were the transition between the 2.

The splitfires you have are series 1 coils and will not work.

You can see in picture 2 that the coil has the added step.

You will require SF-DIS-005

bilbo117 Rising Star

bilbo117

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do the current coils have a carbon rod inside instead of the little copper coil like the splitfires do? As these were the transition between the 2.

You mean where the coil contacts onto the plug??? if so, then mine has the similar coil contact to the splitfire plug, the copper looking one.

Big thanks for your help mate.

julion Community Regular

julion

Posted
Posted
You mean where the coil contacts onto the plug??? if so, then mine has the similar coil contact to the splitfire plug, the copper looking one.

Big thanks for your help mate.

ok, now you sorted that out, I have a question. where are the coilpacks? how do i take em out? I'd like to have a look at the condition of them. sorry to hijcack and be a n00b..

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

The condition of them cant really be seen.

The only indication really is mechanical like small misfires etc or on the coilpacks themselves there will be a whitish burning on the sides.

This usually comes well and truely after they are stuffed and your having huge misfire problems and changing plugs every 500 kays wondering whats going on :(

smurf80 Experienced

smurf80

Posted
Posted
ok, now you sorted that out, I have a question. where are the coilpacks? how do i take em out? I'd like to have a look at the condition of them. sorry to hijcack and be a n00b..

If you still have the black plug cover on that says "nissan twin cam" etc remove that and the coils and spark plugs will be under that. You will have to undo the intake pipe and twist it up so you can get the plug cover off. I have done it with out adjusting the intake pipe and it was a nightmare.

Cheers

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...