Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Example

Car A - V8 N/A. IT of say... 40 degrees according to DD Testing rules

Car B - Turbo/Intercooler 6. IT of also 40 degrees according to DD Testing rules

Which car gets the more unrealistic reading? Car B.

Why? Lets see if people can workout why.

  • Like 1

And we have a winner... never takes long for someone with half an idea :(

40 degrees for the V8, the turbo car is reading 40degrees.

However then the I/C is doing its work, so the figure is incorrectly having adjustments on it for the turbo car.

Hence i dont agree with DD methodology. It works for NA no problem, not turbos

From what I was told, a shootout run should have the inlet temp sensor placed inside the inlet tract just before the throttle body i.e after any intercoolers etc but this is obviously going to be more time consuming on a dyno day for example and never is adhered to.

Depending on where you put the inlet temp sensor, when i tune my car we leave the sensor hanging in ambient temp, not in front of the pod filter as if the motor is sucking hot air i would like to know about it on the dyno so i can rectify the problem. This was my intercooler is never going to cool below ambient, so there would be no problems.

Ok, I have spoken to a few people about this, including a Dyno Dynamics Shootout operator (not the one who tested the car). I have trouble believing that a stock R33 with only turbo-back exhaust and pod filter can make 178rwkw, but noone seems to be able to give me a straight answer.

I can't post my dyno sheet so I guess, it doesn't really matter. I would like to try and understand how a dyno works, so I can then work out how accurate power figures are when you see dyno print outs.

Edited by Quinny
And we have a winner... never takes long for someone with half an idea :P

40 degrees for the V8, the turbo car is reading 40degrees.

However then the I/C is doing its work, so the figure is incorrectly having adjustments on it for the turbo car.

Hence i dont agree with DD methodology. It works for NA no problem, not turbos

Thus the reason for;

Shootout Mode 6

Shootout Mode 6F

Shootout Mode 8

Shootout Mode 8F

There are different correction tables/values for forced induction cars.

Thought this was fairly apparent.

Adrian

Come on, your not meant to post that :rofl:

How does a dyno know the efficiency of a intercooler setup of any given vehicle? Whats it based upon?

I'd be extremely interested to know how they have a correction table that can take into account a heatsoaked system, or adversly an extremely efficient one.

with the tyre thing...the blokes at mercury told us to put some skinny ass tyres on there to get a higher hp reading, we had 255 semi slicks at the time.

Edited by r33_racer
Come on, your not meant to post that :rofl:

How does a dyno know the efficiency of a intercooler setup of any given vehicle? Whats it based upon?

I'd be extremely interested to know how they have a correction table that can take into account a heatsoaked system, or adversly an extremely efficient one.

I fail to see how a heat-soaked system (or otherwise) will affect the power being produced at the rear wheels any differently to how that same heat-soaked system would at the track?!?

Shootout mode was designed to make COMPARISONS more accurate.

So the question of whether intercooler efficiency can be measured on a chassis dyno is moot. It is a more accurate representation of the RELATIVE performance of different types of vehicles on a chassis dyno.

Nothing more, nothing less.

And if anyone has a problem with DD dynos or chassis dynos in general, remember the lowly video cassette tape. Beta is said to be a technically superior system but the popular standard won out in the end. Is it a good thing? Is it a bad thing?

Who cares. It's the standard that people use.

Deal with it.

Are we talking about the track? I dont recall that being so.

Its not a moot point at all. Its extremely relevant.

If you have corrections being applied, based one some "software" thinking there is much lower IT temp than is actually being supplied based on some corrections table within the software itself... then how it is gone to be anywhere near accurate? because it isnt.

Thought i'd save you the heartache of answering that one cause i already know the answer.

Setting up a performance car is all about the package.

Inlet air temp compensation should not be taking in to account.

Ambient yes..

Why should the pod bloke receive a slightly inflated figure when at the strip the conditions are not 'equaled' via an IT temp sensor.

Tyre sizes might give you a bigger hp reading or not

its EXACTLY THE SAME AT THE TRACK

the smaller the tyre the more revs you have in the top end

the bigger the less

Thats when you change gear ratios ETC

and do you know gear ratios also make a difference on a dyno As do on the track

Most DYNO QUEEN cars Run a 3.11 or so gear ratio to help load the dyno more giving a Incorrect reading.

99% of our skylines run a 4.11 4.36 gear and same as most toranas and v8`s

The Shootout mode was designed For COMPARSION from dyno to dyno as mentioned early.

In order for you to be happy then

RUN A AIR TEMP SENSOR JUST AFTER YOUR THROTTLE BODY and get the temperature there and match it on the air temp sensor on the dyno.

What about cars with nitrous and cooler fuel

do you wanna take this into account as well

Nitrous i think is around -50 or so when entered into the manifold and heats up as it goes it

what do you do there

......................................................................

Anyways like i said

TUNING TOOL

Are we talking about the track? I dont recall that being so.

Its not a moot point at all. Its extremely relevant.

If you have corrections being applied, based one some "software" thinking there is much lower IT temp than is actually being supplied based on some corrections table within the software itself... then how it is gone to be anywhere near accurate? because it isnt.

Thought i'd save you the heartache of answering that one cause i already know the answer.

That photo SUITs ya

RUN A AIR TEMP SENSOR JUST AFTER YOUR THROTTLE BODY and get the temperature there and match it on the air temp sensor on the dyno.

Which I think is a load of crap... Its incorrect for one car that has been setup poorly to have its dyno reading inflated due to greater IAT's. It should be based on amb that places a small correction on the run; close the bonnet do the power run and thats it.

I'm not saying that towards you, its towards dyno dynamics. As what are you to dyno dynamics apart from using the product? sfa. :(

However, can you see my point of view?

I'm very aware that a dyno is a tuning tool and power figures should be taken with a pinch of salt since right back when I had my first dyno run on an old analogue needle swinging pice of crap.. (~9yrs ago)

My view is that if a car is making up close to 200rwkw well its getting up there and most definitely not making a stock 125rwkw.

+- ~20-30rwkw, outside of that and I tend to start thinking some one is playing funny buggers.

MR331307, please don't get personal towards other forum members. Functional discussions get us all places, dysfunctional gets us no where.

He is just trying to have a dig at me with something he thinks he knows heaps about... but cant even address the simple issues surrounding it all.

But if its a tuning tool, i dont see why it requires such indepth explainations such as post #1... :P

All's fair in love and war.

And its me in my avatar :)

Come over for a DECA weekend, we'll show ya how to drink some booze :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...