Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Im tryin to case down some after market cams for my NA rb25de, all ive found is Turbo cams.

Ive rang acouple of people and they have told me they cant get a billit cam for a NA and the only way they could do it is take my cams out and weld them then regrind them and that was goin to cost $1600bucks.

Id rather spend the same and get some billets, Anyone put bigger cams in there Rb25de???

Any one no where i can get some???

Or any companys that make em???

I dont mind if i have to get them from Japan aslong as its not goin to cost some bullsh!t price like 3gs or somthing......

anyway let me no people

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130347-after-market-na-cams/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

turbo cams usually dont work that well in a n/a cause like you said the exhaust is open a little longer (if i remeber rightly), but also they are suited to be most efficient in the high revs where the turbo is working its stuff, whereas n/a cams dont have so much exhaust opening (ie not as long) and also try and extract more power and turque low down in the revs

something like that anyway

SURE CAM can regrind stock cams , they are fairly mild because stock cams cant be ground much .

He does an inlet with 255 degrees duration and 8.2 mm lift

exhaust 258 " " " " 8.2 " "

stock cams are 240 degrees duration with 7. 8 mm lift

$ 170 per cam to regrind

ph 02 4736 1742

Edited by dondesoto

your rb25de will be VVT.. you can still use rb20det cams.. but then you will lose your VVT...

i will be looking at cams at some stage hopfully... somthing to open a little bit more power up top.. otherwise ill just port and polish..

kelford cams in NZ does regrinds as well..

What is all this nonsense about turbo cams not working in an n/a ????

All the cam does is open and close the valves. You decide what cam duration and lift you want to run in your engine and buy an appropriate cam or cams to suit. There must be HUNDREDS of different cam grinds available.

Sure, you need to set it up properly with variable cam pullies, but you have to do that anyway turbo or non turbo.

Edited by Warpspeed

but if you look at the cam profiles for cams for a turbo against a n/a engine of the same family (ie rb25de against a rb25det) the cams for the turbo and n/a are different

the exhaust cam for a turbo is designed to extract as much from the turbo as possible and the inlet to let it suck as much as possible, whereas n/a cams is a balance of both having the exhaust breath, but not to much so as too loose to much backpressure, and the inlet not being to restrictive, but not losing too much in the lower rev range

so a turbo cam in a n/a will not get you much power, if anything, as it is designed for a less restrictive setup

Usherly,

Your dribbling... :(

N/A Power,

Grab a set of turbo cams and an adj. cam gear and set them up appropriately. the only real difference between turbo and n/a cams is that turbo's don't like overlap, N/A's love overlap.

Speak to your tuner for a recommedation on what cams you should drop in it. With a guess he may recommend something like a 260degree inlet and 256degree exh.

Or go the regrind..

ok just had a look if my car has that solenoid for the vvt, and it dose.

If i put a set of Turbo cams in for a Rb25 will i b able to keep my vvt??

this is not as easy as it was when i put a cam in my Rb30e.... it was just ring up..... send...... and bolt in....

owell

damn - so i am dribbling

but wouldnt the turbo cams be slightly different with more exhaust lift and slightly longer duration than a n/a cam (i realise that the duration can be dialled out to an extent with adj cam gears)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...