Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well the system is very loud actually, its a hks system, the muffler has a build in silencer and im not to sure what u mean by lower rev repsonse??...

The only thing i dont like about it, it seems to have a pinging sound somewhat like a excel or a rice boy car and im not to happy about that.

Any suggestions on how to remove that sound from the car??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-248701
Share on other sites

If the car is the GTS non turbo, then having a big bore exhaust (with a 3" pipe may harm bottom end performance, due to a drop in back pressure. The need (or not) for back pressure in a N/A engine is debateable, but most say that you're likely to see a loss of power and torque in the lower part of the rev band.

This is especially true if you're driving a N/A car with an aftermarket exhaust designed for a turbo car. You're almost certainly gonna lose some power, not to mention it is likely to drone and fart big time...:mad:

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-248880
Share on other sites

The Kakimoto is quite loud too:) , especially if you don't use the insert baffle - but this is just my opinion. Others who have been in my car say the muffler is too quiet! All depends on what you're used to I guess:D

Since I brought the car with the Kakimoto on, I can't comment on whether bottom end power has been affected...

It doesn't seem so, there's plenty of low end torque and you get a nice roar when you floor it:D

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-249575
Share on other sites

actually neogt thats a really nice car, mine is the same colour and rims although its a r33, how much did u pick that up for?

what sort of mods have u had done to that??

im looking for more performance in mine.. it seems a little sluggish, mates tell me that extractors and a pod filter will make a difference but they say its debatable...just seeing if any of guys have suggestions on how to improve on performance..without spending a great deal of money...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-250904
Share on other sites

Guest neoGT-25

my cars slow :P where on the GC are you?

dont bother with sub zero... they only do turbos and stuff... no one cares about us N/A bois :D

my car was $31,500 and i need to pay it off to my dad or he sells it so im in crap LOL

anyways... i got my new issue of HPI yesterday (.30, God i love my subscription) and they tell you how to get some proformance out of a N/A and in this case they used a 180SX with a SR20DE in it... anyway, they dident get much power from the exhaust or extractors, in fact they lost a little in some places (lower int he rev range) and gained a bit more top end (1kw or so :D) and only a little bit extra power gain with the air filter system (it was weird and i cant remember what they did to it) but what got the most power (from 174kw to 188kw) was some HKS cam pulleys and HKS Camshaft's i was quite impressed... if i dident lend the magazine to my friend i would have writen exactly what it said... oh and they used a A'PEXi S-AFC II to get the fuel ratios right cos it was running really rich

(hope all this made sense since im car dumb... im only writing what i remember)

byes :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-251702
Share on other sites

Do you mind if I ask what size wheels you are running?

My car currently has stock wheels, I'm wanting to fit a decent set of rims but I had a look at the clearance under the wheel arches and there doesn't seem to be that much. Specifically, on the rears there's about an inch clearance between the inner part of the rim and the HICAS join and I wonder if wider wheels is gonna be a problem? What size and offsets are your wheels? I was planning on keeping with 17's (the car has been lowered).

On my old GTS, I was able to fit 9.5 inch wheels on the back with 265 tires and never had a problem with clearance. Fronts were 8.5's with 235 rubber and no rubbing even at full lock.

Definately looks to me like a similar sized setup on the 34 GT-V is gonna cause problems..:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-251746
Share on other sites

Guest neoGT-25

they are 18"

235's at the front and 265's at the back... theres a BIT of arch scraping when my car does a U-turn but nothing serious :)

my cars lowered too... you could always get some VOLK TE37's for cheap or some ADVAN MODEL 5 rims :P

god id kill to live in Japan :D

PS: The VOLK TE37's in white would look SWEEEEET as hell on your car :D id kill for them! and i will... ;)

(j/k)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-251877
Share on other sites

ah that all sound wicked man, im in biggera waters man, real close to the water..

are u down the goldie much if so we should cruise i have heaps of mates with rex's ,skylines, supras we all go cruising.. its heaps of fun.

U say in there (from 174kw to 188kw) how did u get to 174kw.. i thought they were 145kw stock..?

HKS cam pulleys and HKS Camshaft's sound like the go.. i had a vl turbo b4 the skyline and i had the cold air intake and extractors fitted and it made no difference.. (well nothing really major)

ill need to know where the cheapest place to get those parts are.. ppl say im a tight arse with money and wont spend unless i have to. :P

ill have to do some research on the A'PEXi S-AFC II i really have no idea what that is..but ill find out.

cheers for the help man

oh yeah can u buy those magaznines from the newsagent??

if so im gettin suscribed.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/#findComment-251963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...