Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest neoGT-25

your friend is exactly right... i live on government road in a townhouse complex :P

oh and to answer the "U say in there (from 174kw to 188kw) how did u get to 174kw.. i thought they were 145kw stock..?" question

i dont know... its just what the mag said... i dont drive yet so it would be had to cruise LOL

what school did you go to? i go to benowa and its a crap school :P

and also i wouldent know where to buy parts :P

hehe... byes :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/page/2/#findComment-252013
Share on other sites

haha madness man, i cant beilve u have a r34 and u are still in school u lucky basterd :P

yer i was at helensvale high man graduated in 99, yer that was a wicked school i had some good times there.

i lied im not really in biggara water i live about 2 mins from u u know whiting street...brown st im just down there :P

small world :P

are u licenced to drive it yet or not??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/page/2/#findComment-252065
Share on other sites

From what martin donnan said about his partners car

R33 door, auto RB25DE,

he recorded a 9% increase in power at the wheels with a 5zigen cat back exhaust.

impressive i think.

cam shafts, i have heard u can install some tomei cams, that dont requre ecu upgrades,and provide a 10% increase as well, get some adjustable cam gears to dial in as well.

An altenative to getting totally new cams is to reground the existing cams, though a side effect could be roughness in the idle, but i think i could live with that. :P

SAFC will make the most of you cars stock air/fuel ratio by maximising it.

i am desperatly saving for all of the above, and through a top bloke i could land my self a 5zigen R33 na cat back, wahoo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/page/2/#findComment-252261
Share on other sites

Just read that HPI article on NA tuning.

The results that they got, are CRAP.

after a cat back, 2 different extractors, 2 HKS camshafts with cam gears. And an apexi SAFC.

its only 88rwkw, up from about 72/74rwkw. Shit in my opinion.

i plan on getting all the mods mentioned, and from the research ive done, i will make alot more then 15rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13035-my-car/page/2/#findComment-255238
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...