Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Spark Plugs

Lithius

By Lithius,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
Posted

Hey all, sorry to have to ask but in all my searching I couldn't find a definite answer for the R34 GTT and i'm not sure if they use the same as the other RB25 engines. Does anyone know If I can buy pre-gapped plugs that are .8mm to suit the NEO RB25DET? If so what is the part # for these, I went into a few places today and they couldn't help me. Otherwise i'm going to have to re-gap the Iridiums I have in it because they are seriously mis-firing above .6 bar.

I'll also be looking at the coils and possibly treating them with araldite when I have the plugs out. Which reminds me, does anyone know of a guide for removing R34 GTT plugs? Found one for the RB25DE engine but I think it may be a different setup.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130547-r34-gtt-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites
nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
Posted

Kudos Motorsports on these forums can help you out.

6 x BKR6EIX for $99 delivered.

Dont get the BKR6EIX-11, they are 1.1mm gapped ones.

Be careful when you start getting parts off to get to the plugs, dont break the boost sensor that is near the firewall in the middle of the engine bay.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Never fear; if you break the sensor - I have a spare :huh:

Nah you'll be right; provided the car is stock (air box I mean)

1) Get rid of the air box assembly

2) Remove NEO6 Engine Cover

3) Remove Hoses + Clamps

4) Loosen up and remove the BOV Pipe

5) (optional) Remove throttle body

6) Remove Coil Cover

7) Remove Coil Packs

8) Remove Spark Plugs

You do not need to remove the strut brace; there is more than enough room under it to work with.

The throttle body does not neccessarily need to be removed; you can work around it (might spend some time doing so though).

NB: There is one allen bolt under the throttle body that will be very hard to get out if you don't take the throttle body off (it's under the TCS motor). I got around it with a pair of grips onto the allen key piece instead of using a ratchet.

IMPORTANT: use a magnetic tray or something for your bolts and make sure you double check if anything falls into the spark plug wells. I know of one person who blew his motor because he didn't check it (poor guy)

Good luck!

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you have a problem at .6bar, then it's not a spark gap problem. Gapping the plug only masks the real problem.

Read this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130557

before you decide on a plan of action.

Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah I kinda figure there's an underlying issue (coilpacks?) but the way I see it gapping the plugs to .8 is just a temporary fix until I get around to getting some splitfires. Maybe I should just leave them alone and buy the splitfires straight up. Or have a look at the coilpacks and see if I can araldite them.

Edited by Lithius
Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've got all my coils out at the moment, they all look to be in good condition. Does anyone know what copper NGK plugs I need for an RB25DET NEO? The repco/autopro guys don't seem to have any idea because it isn't in there book. I have Iridiums in it at the moment (BKR6EIX) but I want to get some cheap coppers to regap to 0.8mm. Are they the same plugs as for the R33 RB25?

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

The standard plugs from factory are NGK PFR5G-11 for GTT R34.

Platinum plugs with a heat rating of "5" under the NGK scale and a gap of 1.0-1.1mm.

These engines run a hotter plug then the non NEO RB25 as its a more efficient engine and meets tougher emission level standards.

If you aren't making over 250rwkw, then you shouldn't even need to consider reducing the gaps. If the coils have failed repair or replace or else your never going to have the vehicle running correctly, and doing bodge jobs such as plug gaps is no the answer, longterm.

  • 4 weeks later...
Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just incase someone finds this thread whilst trying to diagnose the same problem, gapping the plugs didn't fix the problem but getting splitfires did. Car runs like a monster now :)

Edited by Lithius
Haxorz Rising Star

Haxorz

Posted
Posted
Just incase someone finds this thread whilst trying to diagnose the same problem, gapping the plugs didn't fix the problem but getting splitfires did. Car runs like a monster now :)

Thanks for the update! I have a similar problem. Did you try epoxying the coils before replacing them as per this thread?

Lithius Community Regular

Lithius

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks for the update! I have a similar problem. Did you try epoxying the coils before replacing them as per this thread?

Narh mate, I did try taping them all with good quality insulative tape but It didn't make a difference. I couldn't see any discernable cracks or anything that a lot of people described... It'd be a good money saver if it works, but in the end i'd say splitfires are the best bet.

I really need to get a multimeter and test out my coilpacks, 5 of them are probably okay.

Here's a few threads I looked at for info on the problem. There were a few more things I could've done to try and fix it myself but I guess I got lazy.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43555

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=misfire

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthr...ghlight=misfire

G_Force Community Regular

G_Force

Posted
Posted

Hey,

i too am looking for the right plug for a 34GT-T and after doing a search n some reading incl. the thread by R33S2 with over 153 replies that took me half an afternoon to get thru, im probably more confuse now than before i started looking. :(

Planning on running da 34GT-T on 12psi, maybe even a tad more since i usually only give it short squirts. Planning on sticking to NGK coppers, in the V-power if i can get em, from wot ive read, i believe i should be using 0.8mm for that sorta boost, not sure which heat range. Anyone know wot the model no. for the plug i need and where i can get a set from? I need a set pretty soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...