Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a 2nd plastic place also working on an enclosure, i reckon 1 out of 3 places should have something in next 4-6 weeks! dont want to have to get ball rolling with a 4th place!

i should have gone with this 3rd place from the start - their turn around times were about 2 months (back in feb) and i thought "so they wont be done till april? thats too long!" - and forgot about them. contacted them the other day and leadtimes are closer to 4-6 weeks so ill get them starting on a design this week.

reminder that the start of this thread has all info relating to the v1 group buy - i should start a new thread for V2 ones soon.

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Very cool little display. I'd like to see the new version when its ready. Makes me want to keep my stock ECU and re-map so i can use this :domokun: Love all the functions! Your a smart guy Peter.

Yeah i will think about that :)

Sorry for now i have a GTR in many pieces (100's) and lots of money to be spent on other bits first unfortunately :)

So i didnt mean to be a time waster but i'll have to keep you posted Peter :)

Many thanks,

Deren

ok so now ive got a 4th(!) enclosure place started on making enclosures...this is becoming a bit of a joke, its like they all somehow know each other and have organised to 'lets just do nothing for this guy, how funny would that be!'. needless to say that having them ready this month is not really possible anymore. need target i guess is end of next month!

firmwares got maybe 1hr worth left to change it over from 40x2 to 20x4 so will be no problems there (prob done by this weekend).

if people want to let me know their preference for blue/green lcd screen (just post in this thread or pm me), because i need to order the right ratio of screens, and the boards need a different resistor depending on colour. doesnt matter if you change your mind about colour later, just need a gauge on what screens people generally prefer. remember you can checkout the blue screen in this avi 4.2mb from a couple of years ago. thats fairly close to what it will look like in general ambient light (worse in direct sunlight, better at night/low light).

all aim to update thread to 'v2' display (ie first post etc) sometime this weekend

was this around the $200 mark

and i forget can it do lap times as well or only display temp. speed rpm and few other bits and pieces

i would be interested in a blue screen one

yes its still estimated to be $200 (+$10 blue screen, $7 postage within aus)

it can do time trials, not lap times (no idea how the car is supposed to know when you do a lap - maybe if you entered the distances or something, perhaps an idea for future update)

yes it has a 'few' other bits and pieces

battery voltage, economy, injector duty cycle, ignition timing, AAC %, o2 sensor, coolant temp, AFM, TPS

trip meter - showing av speed, current speed, av fuel economy, current fuel economy, distance travelled, fuel used, litres per hour

then theres the fault codes, options to switch between metric/imperial, control of LCD brightness, contrast, and has USB consult interface if you want to hook up your laptop.

and theres probably other stuff, cant remember! see first page of this thread and then http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx for differences from V1 display.

ive added u to the list

ah yeah trip stuff is good this works with powerFC?

what's the difference with time trials to lap times?

with lap times couldn't you make it so you press a button @ the start finish line then press it again when you cross the line again to tell it how long the lap is then speed x distance = time or some equation like that :D i forget most of my physics

wont work with powerfc or other aftermarket computer, only stock ecu (daughterboard ok)

time trials = 0-60km/h, 0-100km/h, 400m, etc.

i edited last post - idea could be to set track distance and it would time each amount of distance.

a mate + stopwatch + odometer = cheaper lap timer :D

though really there are functions that more people would use tht would need to be done before any fancy lap timers, but as the firmware is updatable by user, means its pretty easy for me to release updates to add new features.

ah spewn about no after market computer

does that mean you wont need one, or will i keep you on the list?

Hey Peter,

Please put me on the list for a V2. Im a later comer to this but am very interested. How much longer would it be till the next batch? Still end of next month?

Cheers mate

ive added you. end of next month is still possible (although i havent yet passed the design stage with any enclosure makers yet, this 4th one are moving fairly quickly so im a bit more confident this time, but with all the other delays by the others places i wont be counting any chickens)

Hi, i'm intrested 100% if your still going to make them, put me down for one

thanks

they're practically done, except for the enclosure. ive got about 95 of them sitting in the room, just need cable assembled, screen plugged in, firmware put on the chip, and then stick them in an enclosure. ive added you to list.

I'd like to be added to the list for the ECUTalk Consult LCD display (v2) as well please. With the Blue & White screen :)

done

yeah i like the idea of having a pfc sorry cause i was liking the idea of having a trip computer too without the big after market price

does that mean you wont need one, or will i keep you on the list?

...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...