Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Um by the way...we still havn't established what the car actually already has???he may have half the stuff that paul 33 has listed so in that case...where could his extra money be better spent? a better turbo perhaps or maybe a bit more tlc to drivetrian or suspension in order to put this "250 - 300kw's" to the ground

He said the car is completely stock, so it will have none of it.

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Um by the way...we still havn't established what the car actually already has???he may have half the stuff that paul 33 has listed so in that case...where could his extra money be better spent? a better turbo perhaps or maybe a bit more tlc to drivetrian or suspension in order to put this "250 - 300kw's" to the ground

Did you read the first post?

I think it was clearly established what he does, and does not have

The car is completly stock and i'm wanting to use it on the road as well as one the track.

utilizing an air flow meter is going to offer a safer tune every time, and at those power levels the right type of afm isn't really going to lose you massive amounts of power, so personally i know what i would be using. check your facts and your "reliable source".

Um by the way...we still havn't established what the car actually already has???he may have half the stuff that paul 33 has listed so in that case...where could his extra money be better spent? a better turbo perhaps or maybe a bit more tlc to drivetrian or suspension in order to put this "250 - 300kw's" to the ground
If GTR injectors aren't the straight drop in then what is?

so s15 injectors are? any others that are higher than 480cc?

You are better off going for some Nismo ones. Will cost about $900 all up and fit straight in. Cams will also be required for a safe 250rwkw and I would be budgeting $15k for the whole lot including labour

ahh guys, where is the love? i think some people are getting a bit hot under the collar.. let's examine the facts:

FACT 1: An afm is a better option for the kind of setup this guy is after

FACT 2: After a careful read of FSTR32, both he and his "reliable source" don't have a clue what they're talking about and FSTR32 refuses to admit this even though he/she has been presented with credible evidence to which he/she has replied to as being "WEAK"

so, the solution? FSTR32 either shuts up or pulls his/her head in and we can all go back to being happy forum users.

You are better off going for some Nismo ones. Will cost about $900 all up and fit straight in. Cams will also be required for a safe 250rwkw and I would be budgeting $15k for the whole lot including labour

I would love to get nismo ones, but I can get them s15 injectors very cheap.

Well actually basically anything coming off a japanese car.

Just wanted to know my alternatives

If GTR injectors aren't the straight drop in then what is?

so s15 injectors are? any others that are higher than 480cc?

nismo 550 or 740 injectors are straight swap, or you can go the sards which require an injector collar to fit.

I have the sard 850cc on mine, which is overkill until the engine is rebuilt and I can get the most out of the gt3540r

Just because an engine produces 369rwkw with an AFM doesnt mean the AFM isnt causing a restriction and that there is nothing wrong with the AFM as you say. Your logic is to look at the end result without a proper control (ie no AFM) which is nothing but inviable.

Honda and certain toyotas run MAP. Have you driven a vtec-powered car?

Youre always the first to say if its not needed than dont buy it. Well what about this case? The afm isnt needed and unless youre a track racer where a split second counts the AFM isnt needed at all. He can save himself money on not buying an AFM.

Better yet, you can even see the video and look at the nice telly screen of it. :)

How good is that eh? Stuff having a sheet, live video recording is a joy.

http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/recent...a697e4dad6e.htm

That also includes a backup run of 358rwkw with a bit less timing.

Safe to say there is nothing wrong with an AFM based car at all.

Just because an engine produces 369rwkw with an AFM doesnt mean the AFM isnt causing a restriction and that there is nothing wrong with the AFM as you say.

WHAT THE HELL IS A AFM??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

My tuner has expirience with both MAF and MAP applications for the RB's.

If he tells me in his expertise that the AFM is not a restriction, then i'll believe him based on his testing and applications.

I trusted his judgement and made more power than anyone else said was possible at the time.

When a PowerFC is $900, and the AFM $250-$300 thats $1200.

Would i be right in saying a MAP based ECU is a little more expensive in most cases?

The closest that comes to mind is $1400 at the very least. I think more decent are wire-in at a $2000+ cost

So cost for cost, the AFM + PowerFC Combo will works out cheaper.

As stated he is in Vic, and *most* tuners will prefer to use a PowerFC down here as opposed to anything else.

Just because an engine produces 369rwkw with an AFM doesnt mean the AFM isnt causing a restriction and that there is nothing wrong with the AFM as you say. Your logic is to look at the end result without a proper control (ie no AFM) which is nothing but inviable.

Honda and certain toyotas run MAP. Have you driven a vtec-powered car?

Youre always the first to say if its not needed than dont buy it. Well what about this case? The afm isnt needed and unless youre a track racer where a split second counts the AFM isnt needed at all. He can save himself money on not buying an AFM.

Well not actually because a decent ECU that utilises the MAP sensor will set you back around a minimum of $2000 installed. Then the tune on top. So he would, in fact, be outlaying more money for it. There is nothing wrong with an AFM, there is also nothing wrong with a MAP sensor. Both have their pros and both have their cons. You can make more HP from a MAP setup but his aim is only for 250-300rwkw so the Afm would do just fine.

airflow meter.

the cost of saving on an afm and gaining possibly 0 rwkw or even 2rwkw and dealing with the crapness of map sensor driven tune is not worth the $300 saved

WHAT THE HELL IS A AFM??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Air Flow Meter (AFM)

If you look near your airbox, there is a sensor in the pipe going to the turbo with a wire/plug on it.

That is the AFM :)

WHAT THE HELL IS A AFM???

AFM stands for Air Flow Meter. Which is technically incorrect in this case as the Nissan unit uses a hot wire setup which should be referred to as Mass Air Flow Meter or MAF meter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...