Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know anything about them?...ie their work is it like good or etc etc....yeah recently had an unfortunate accident....because of some commo driver pulled outa no where so i had to dodge and had an accident....im with HBF they sent me to Romano's smash repairers in canningvale....does anyone know ne info about them and how long do they take to fix the car? cheers

the only probs with my car that i can see was lower control arms for rear right hand side, rim/wheel, front bumper = destroyed :)

any info would be great cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131230-romano-smash-repairs/
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear dude!!! I probably can help out finding side quarter panels and bonnet, lights etc. if u need them and maybe a front bar from my front cut in 2 weeks :-) pedders I think have lower control arms check them out cheaper than genuine. Talk to me on msn

-michael

yeah cheers for the support aye but its already at romano's from this morning....i just hope they don't take like 2 months or equivalent aye :) means im goin to have to like have trouble getting to skool/home/work ! lol but yeah i guess its better to get it fixed up professionally rather than me trying to attempt a back yard job huh?

Cheers

Chi

My Neighbour works for Romano Smash Repair

He has a Ute that says "Romano Smash Repair" hehehe

N he knows i have a Skyline.. we Chat here n there Sometimes n helped me once Install my New Steering Wheel which kept beeping

So he should Take Care of Ya.. if he's the one workin on ur Car :)

-SeSaR

Edited by Black_CSR

mmm cheers dude...yeah flash89 all i know is that the commodore just looked like those ones we see every day and white so not much help aye :)...cheers black CSR hahaha mmm i really would appreciate if i can get teh car by this week end but i danno i think romano's is just too busy so hahah

Cheers..

Chi

hey there4, a few months (5 or 6) i crashed my dads brand new magna lol, wasnt a write off but i did $15k damage, it went to romanos and was supposed to tkae a month, it took nearly 2 and a half months due to delays. I doubt this is normal for them though. One of the people needed to fix the car was on holiday for opart of the time, and they had to order new parts from japan.

BUT they did a great job and the car came back driving good as new.

Yeah i wouldnt expect it back by the weekend. Its just unrealistic. I had a minor bingle like ures a while back and they took about 3 weeks to get parts ex jap and get it back to me. Not bad really it could have been longer.

Dont call them every second day to see if its ready though, that drives em nuts. They do however appreciate if you can source parts for em though as Michael said earlier he might be able to help you out so u can always call em up and say " i had a friend offer parts want to buy them off him?"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...