Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

Just finished installing trust turbos (T618Z)and everything is fine as in car starts, idles at right rpm.....had to get my exhaust extended from the trust front n dump pipe to the second half of exhaust about 30cm. Anyways got it done today and after driving it...and giving it abit it didnt feel like the turbos werent kicking in. Any suggestions or theories on what i can check why it isnt?

1)Some have theories have come to thought i used electrical tape to fatten up the wastegate nib so i could use the original silicone lines to the solonoid (could that be the cause of my vacuum leak?), i did use cable tie it tho.

2)My pod filters are pushed right up against the body of car (Could this restrict the amount of air flow??)

The car feels like NA car without the turbos.?

Any comments would be appreciated.thanks

hmm, not boosting?

they are pretty big turbos. id expect some lag. they should kik in by say 5k if not then there may be a problem with either the wastgate actuators (not put on) or a problem with the turbos them selves.

does it run airflow meters? or a map sensor ecu. im sure its something simple. it usaly is ;)

hmm, not boosting?

they are pretty big turbos. id expect some lag. they should kik in by say 5k if not then there may be a problem with either the wastgate actuators (not put on) or a problem with the turbos them selves.

does it run airflow meters? or a map sensor ecu. im sure its something simple. it usaly is ;)

yeah i took up too 8000...and yeah running z32 afm and AFC..with HKS EBC..and the turbos were near new..no shaft play etc..actuators are on..i unbolted the rear actuator one so i could get into some tight places to bolt on clamps but it has been bolted back on. i have tomei pon cams and adj cam gears.

Does the car revs??If the engine revs up to 3 grand then not rev anymore...then probably something to do with your force induction system which is the intercooler piping....

well it just my idea....have a try mate

Good luck

well im stumped. so weve got both actuators on, and holding tight.

if its got airflow meters, and runs fine but not boosting then its the turbos or a blocked exhaudt. thats all it could be. :) otherwise the car would run like shit under load if there was an air leak,

soo its on the exhaust side the problem ;)

i was thinking the same thing To4gtr ... that's why i said he should put a guage on it...

its behaving like a blocked cat

i just had the exhaust extended about 30cm from the trust front pipe and a new catco cat installed at same time, i do also have one of those butterfly valves installed as well but that didnt cause n issue with my other turbos.

what i did today was took everything off and made sure i tightened every clamp and used 2 cable ties for the vacuum hose on actuators...took it out for a drive tonite and it feels alot better than before but I thought it would pull alot harder with the bigger turbos?? i know i have to get it tuned again to get the fuel/air mixtures right, can feel the car start boosting at around 4k, the problem is it doesnt pull as hard?

would the cause also be if i got the 2 AFM looms mixed up?ie front loom is attached to rear turbo AFM n vice versa

You really need to SCREW boost into those turbos... 20psi+ to get the show to begin mate.

The 517's are bad enough, and you've chosen even bigger mumma's again :(

I suggest you get it tuned and said amounts of boost wound into it.

Then you should be on your way and it will feel better

the real problem is you ditched those beautiful HKS 2530s for some massive trust low mounts that are more suited to and RB30, or at least RB28 and even then best suited for drag. they will be laggy as hell on the street. :(

yep, as far as I know the 618s he went for are the biggest low mount you can fit on a pair of stock manifolds. well off the shelf anyway.

I think perhaps get a tune and then re-asses the problem. from what I remember you weren't too concerned with lag anyway, you were unhappy with the power made by the 2530s and wanted more. this should make more power, but will definately be a lot laggier.

yeah i think i may have solved the problem, the custom piping that was given to me wasnt the best fit n i had to wait for a bigger 3inch 45degree silicon coupler that arrived today, so i refitted everything again and too it for a drive and everything seems ok, it is laggier with boost kicking around 4k mark..have to get it tuned again.

Would getting it tuned again, as i got tomei cams/trust adjustable cam gears...would it bring boost on abit earlier with the 260 9.15mm lift cams? or would i need to go for larger cams?

I dont think you'll it any sooner mate regardless of what you do.

You have the biggest low-mounts on the market, and bush bearing to boot. Great top end they will have... low end and some mid range, they simply wont.

They will be nothing like the 2530's in terms of midrange/boost building.

bang!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

piss off the buterfly valve.

i remember wrxhoon (i think) haveing the SAME PROBLEM with the t04r setup. it was shuting with the incresed power. they are a stupid idea.

and also if its on bakwards it will be blowing shut lol

100% thats the pronblem :D

yeah i think i may have solved the problem, the custom piping that was given to me wasnt the best fit n i had to wait for a bigger 3inch 45degree silicon coupler that arrived today, so i refitted everything again and too it for a drive and everything seems ok, it is laggier with boost kicking around 4k mark..have to get it tuned again.

Would getting it tuned again, as i got tomei cams/trust adjustable cam gears...would it bring boost on abit earlier with the 260 9.15mm lift cams? or would i need to go for larger cams?

Ask a tuner if the d-jetro power fc will give you responce quicker....I am sure this is what the ecu is designed for.You will have responce alot earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...