Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Hey, just found this thread looking for fuel pump flow rates and have spent the last 3 hours reading it all. Glad to know there's alot more similar minded people on here. While definately nowhere near the pointy end of the power figures, thought I'd throw my specs and recent dyno runs up for comparison. cheers

Series 1 2 door R33 AUTOMAGIC

80k std RB25DET

std turbo

std injectors

std manifolds (in & ex)

Monsta FMIC

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Toshi Kubota modified and remapped std ECU

Tomei adjustable FPR set to 45psi@idle

std coils

NGK BKR5EYA special anti fouling plugs gapped to 0.8mm (no misfires!)

adjustable boost bleed valve set to max 12psi

std auto

std dif

265.4 RWHP or 197.98 RWKW on 98 octane pump fuel. See dyno sheet attachted. Going by other car figures and times on here, with a good launch should go down the 1/4 in mid 13's?

1st run was 254 and with bit more fuel pressure, boost and ignition timing we got 265.4HP. And it runs sweet with the 1st map Toshi gave me. As Justin from Black Track said it was perfectly tuned. I just wanted to check AFR's, boost levels and see the numbers. No problem lighting the tyres now on kick back and the auto is great for everyday driving.

Now I've sorted the car and achieved what I sent out to the car is for sale. PM me if interested.

Skyline_Dyno_Run_31_7_09_HP_v_PSI.pdf

Thats pretty damn good mate for all the stock stuff !! I don't know what the problem was with mine, whether a dyno thing or not im not sure, but best i could get with the stock parts was 146 rwkw's ..... So personally i think you've done well !!

Gary

I haven't said anything for a while as i finally blew No.1 Cyl ring land. I've just been driving the car round on 5cyl's as i need it to pick up my son. But the good news is that the rather expensive 3ltr bottom end is underway currently.

Hope to have some good results for you in October. See if i can't have a shot at Satanic's 34 monster :) Go the AUTOS !

Gary

hey gary, yeah Ive upped the boost to 1.2bar now myself, so its seeing 250rwkw or thereabouts thru the Adelaide Hills

AWD Stagea auto. Havent gone up to 20psi as yet as Im awaiting funds to drop in 6x jdm S15 450/480cc injectors Ive got here, and retune on dyno

also thinking of getting a ecu (either megasquirt or emanage ultimate) piggybacked, and take out the safc/sitc. then shoot for 265kw

good luck with the rebuild ! awesome fun, enjoyed doing the headwork with the Stag, and cant wait to drop in some rods/pistons

You've got 250 rwkw still on the stock 370's Brendan ? Jeeze they must be maxxed of close to it ! I gotta watch myself.... i get all caught up trying to get to the same power as i see some guys on here, and i gotta keep reminding myself its thru a 3500 stall..... haha, still doesn't stop me trying :)

If i can get up around Stans level, i'd be happy. (Yes i know stan's auto ! i mean't other manual cars)

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor
I haven't said anything for a while as i finally blew No.1 Cyl ring land. I've just been driving the car round on 5cyl's as i need it to pick up my son. But the good news is that the rather expensive 3ltr bottom end is underway currently.

Hope to have some good results for you in October. See if i can't have a shot at Satanic's 34 monster :) Go the AUTOS !

Gary

Hehe - am I the benchmark now / still? I saw my name come up on the email reply so I came to have a look-see.

Your RB30 - share some details :ermm: It doesn't take much to beat my setup in terms of the RB30 itself, I must admit I didn't put too much fancy gear into it.

I just re-registered my car for another year, and once I get back from Singapore in a few weeks, I'll be looking at upping the boost and getting a 2009 tune rolled out :D There should be another 200-300rwhp or so in it considering we're only up to 50% of the turbo's range...

(Yes i know stan's auto ! i mean't other manual cars)

Slap a manual behind it and it'll be even higher, the numbers :)

I think I read somewhere that after you get to a certain point, the drivetrain losses aren't as bad - even more so if you've done stuff to help the drivetrain out?

This may of interest to some of you; don't think I've posted this yet...

scancbq.jpg

Shows the following:

1) Power from final tune from RB25

2) Power from RB2630 run-in tune; 3rd last run to breaking flex plate

3) Power from RB2630 after new flex plate; one of the initial runs

4) Power from RB2630; one of the final runs before 390rwkw was reached.

Haha, yes mate, you are the benchmark ! It was Dangerman, but he sooked out and sold the lot :) But you've upped the bar quite some with your motor.

Ah thats right, you have the 26 head on your 30.

Lewis Engines is building the bottom end for me. Arias custom pistons, precision H beam rods, crank collar, Hi-vol sump, modified rb25 oil pump , (asked to machine to fit the tomei pump for later though), Ross balancer, & Special Dilithium Crystal Harmonic resonator.

Doesn't sound like much, but its the most i've spent on a motor , by a long shot ! And its only the bottom end. Im just going to put my head onto it myself for now. See where its at Hp wise and go from there. I will procure an RB25 head and get a full overhaul and port work etc etc later on as funds permit. Least thats the current brain fart idea im running with..... it changes regularly, especially with beers.

I just paid $450 to the dentist would you believe for an hour, and i can barely open my jaw, so drinking it is for tonight dinner ! Anyone know if the NEO head is same stud pattern inlet and out as RB25 ?? :ermm:

Gary

Each time i upped the converter i lost mph, ie HP lower !. So i guess with a manual i could have got 330+ easy. If i revved it to 8K id say there was another 10-15 in it also. All conjecture now though.

Bring on the dirty 30. (once running again i will do a run in 3rd with and without the converterlockup, so might give an idea of loss)

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor

Different intake on the NEO Gary same exhaust from what i can tell (changing my exhaust gasket as we speak)

oh and I think I found my power robbing problem (see attached pic) one of the exhaust housing bolts has come out and I had a leak at number one exhaust outlet

ahh the never endingbattle that is cars

wanna sell me that tial gate yet gary ???

post-18618-1249704797_thumb.jpg

Let us know when you next run it up to see if it aided your problem.

No i will be keeping the Tial and HKS manifold now Peter. Same as the .82 A/r housing. The 3ltr should make it all work abit better, at least gain some low and mid back. Going to plumb the screamer back in though, it gave me the shits big time.

Can't wait to get back out to the sprints with it.... its been nearly two years since the line's been out there !!!!

Gary

Thats pretty damn good mate for all the stock stuff !! I don't know what the problem was with mine, whether a dyno thing or not im not sure, but best i could get with the stock parts was 146 rwkw's ..... So personally i think you've done well !!

Gary

Give Toshi's remapped ECU's a go. He removed all the rich and retard and other fun police stuff, told him exactly what I had and he sent me up a re-chipped and mapped ECU to try for $350 deposit. He set it very safe and not to full potential of course and it sorted all my running issues. I gave him some feed back on how it ran and sent him another $110 and he sent me what he calls a street chip which is just on the safe side and would not cause any issues when the weather gets hot, I changed it myself and straight to 257HP! Changed a couple of things as described and 265.4HP. Bloke knows his stuff. Told me not to worry about Z32AFM for my settings and rest would be fine with max boost 12.5psi. If I want more HP he can remap the chip or give me another to run with C16 or whatever. It's not a PFC but saved me a few thousand to get my 200RWKW and for a daily driver that's enough in my books!

You know the best thing about these autos is how easy they are in traffic (I used to drive a 13BPP), and then to be able to put the foot down and have it break sideways and fishtail up the road! Got to love it!!

You can get in touch with Toshi on here. Just search members for Toshi.

Kubota San Tensai-teki !!

Its ok mate, i'm a fair bit away from re-mapping the ecu nowadays. Plus i do all my own tuning on the dyno. Thats why i say it was good to see 200 odd.... i had an LINK ecu at that stage and unlimited time on the dyno to sort out power and could only get 145 kw odd..... but then again nissan FAST software lists 4 different auto turbos, and two manual ones ..... i could just have a small turbo, who knows. But thats light years away now :P

For the record i did modify the R31 Ecu i had with the RB20 NICS i swapped into my R31. No info was avail like the R32 stuff. I did change mapping and timing and got it going pretty well. I remember fitting a 1M eprom to it (they use 128K) and then using a binary switch on the upper 2 address lines. That way i could run 4 maps and simply swap between them on the fly ! Good for trying stuff out.

You might have seen the R31 wiring pinout on the web..... I did that 8 years ago !

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...