Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im purchasing a AEM F/IC-8 for $350 USD delivered.

Supplues fuel mapping, injection alterations and ignition timing maps over 21x17

so that will give me heaps of scope to drop in the 480cc injectors and retune, selling the safc/sitc combo afterwards

here comes 260kw

:P

  • 2 weeks later...

Call Mike at M V Automatics in Adelaide , as ask for a price on a shift kit. Also get him to supply a service kit as well.... think its included anyway but best to ask.

Others will have to recommend workshops in your local area to do the job. But most shops could do it easy enough.

Gary

Once again, talk to Mike at M V Auto's in Adelaide :rolleyes: Sounds like you might be well served just calling and telling him what you want to achieve from the car and see what he reccomends. Don't forget to account for going larger later on..(it almost always happens haha)

Do yourself a favour and get a good sized trans oil cooler. I used a davies craig one inline with the stock calsonic one.

Gary

Stan,

Just re-reading your post, and i have to say, i highly doubt you'll get an extra 2-300 rwhp out of it !!!! I estimate a max of about 70 rwhp or 50 rwkw's extra .. So up around 420 rwkw.

I'd be happy to be wrong for sure, but going on the Hp rating of that turbo and working on a conservative (for auto with a medium stall) 15% driveline loss , thats my prediction :rolleyes:

Gary

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got my R31 back from the dyno after tuning - modes so far are...

  • RB25DET
  • Shift kitted & manualised RE4R01
  • Saber FMIC
  • Custom 3" exhaust from turbo to tailpipe with 4" steel cat
  • No name pod filter - AFM removed
  • LinkPLUS
  • 98RON

200.1kw at the tyres - 10psi of boost :cool: bigger injectors and GT3071 coming shortly

  • 1 month later...

Any updates auto guys ? Hows the new housing Peter?

HEY STAN , love the car in the Magazine mate, congrats !!!

My build has stepped up to the next level now. After alot of deliberation, i've decided to go to the rb26 head, and twin turbo's. The 3L bottom end is apparently nearly ready.

Its now costing quite alot ...... its costing me over $2k just to buy all the GTR stuff i need (thanks johno) ! Then the head work and cams will top $5K , so that will happen next year at this rate. I'll be happy to have the bottom end and all parts bar turbo's paid for by chrissy. Aim is 400+rwkw on pump , and 450+rwkw on E85 (Or more likely 60/40 methanol/petrol) .

Going to talk to Mike at MV about a transbrake too... but i think he isn't keen on them in jatco's from memory. Need to discuss getting current 3500 converter dyno'd or tested anyway, as its slipping alot more top end than the 2800, considerably so ....

Also , i will be swapping the LINK G4 plugin (of which i've wired in every extra input available !! haha) over to the LINK G4 EXTREME. Reason being , aside from the extra analogue in's i require, it can drive the low impedance injectors directly with its peak&hold drivers (means it will allow much better control over LARGE injectors (1000cc+) at the low end, idle etc. Also twin knock sensor inputs directly. Extra ignition so no more waste spark needed too.

And i'll build another tech edge wideband controller and run two of them to the link for logging and quicktune !

Ah its going to be fun ! Can't wait to be finally back on the dyno tuning it ..... Anyway, back to lurking.

Gary

hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks time to sort out the rpm-/fuel cut.

seems to be boost related

can see it's losing 15kw at top end, due to the rpm cut

should be seeing right on 250rwkw not 235kw

scan0004.jpg

I have just finished building my new RB30 bottom end, goes in for run in tune next Monday and then will add a heap of boost two weeks after that (assuming I get enough Km's on it). I will definitely post new power + torque with my auto against my old RB25 set up. Will also be interesting to see how my 60ft times work out considering my RB25 wouldnt dip under 2.4 seconds with a 4000rpm stall!

R32 RB20DET, roughly 200kw untuned with these mods

FMIC, RB25 s2 turbo (10psi), nismo 555c, Z32 AFM, GFB BOV, POD, GREDDY E-MANAGE, NOS

Standard auto, 3000rpm stall

Missing mainly in 1st &2nd due to untuned

2nd semi slicks

(Nos was not used at the time)

12.4 @ 104mph

Hey guys, yah it is good to see guys out there who like auto's in their skylines..

I love em, although i have gone through a few.

As we speak, i have a jatco 3spd, transbraked, manulised, blah blah, everything done..

With a 2800 stally and on semi's i managed 11.5@120mph with 271rwkw with a rb25/30 gt35r apexi powerfc, stock as a rock rb30.

I ended up blowing my bottom end and decided to go all out.

I have a ported rb26 head going on(just need cam caps if anyone has any) gonna drop a gt45r on, 1000cc injectors, E85 and so on on a forged bottom end. I had to sort some oil issues, (sump capicity, oil pump and head drain and oil cooler) so hopefully this time i will make in excess of 400rwkw. Though i am thinking of dropping the driveline in a holden tonner, just as it will be a weekender. My R31 will become a more of a family car, but using a Re4r03a tricked up box and a basic turbo setup, should last a while..

Cheers, yah i love 3lt torque!! Though never been in an rb20/25 car, but have heard that it has torque from idle better than the others.

60' 1.788. Not the best launch. It would've been better if i could actually get on boost and better on the converter off the line, but i had to control it as i'd just fry the tyres to the 60' mark with the falken semi's.

I really need some big bags with soft sidewalls and large profile to get proper grip. I'd probably get into the high 1.6's if i could and dip into the tens with that setup, too bad now though..

checkout http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p?autocom=times

#11.

I was 5 at one stage.

Yeah sounds like you need abit bigger (or smaller size in reality!!) converter to make use of the transbrake.

I just spoke to Mike at MV today about what im doing etc . He said 450rwkw is right on the edge for the 4 speed jatco..... hmmm .... Also, you can get a transbrake for them, however he buys it in from the states (the valvebody), and its fully manualised, running full line pressure always...(ie really drags only type car use) ... about $7-800 odd....... So that put a stop to that plan......, will just have to sort out weak as piss rear brake problem so i can stall up the old fashion way.

He also agreed something sounds wrong with my converter also, as they aim for only about 6-7% slip up top...... i have alot more . So when motor come out, it'll go down. They don't do the converters themselves, they have a contract with a converter shop. not sure which one.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...