Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a quick rundown of the day:

NismoR34 - R34 GTT with pod, cat back and boost

182.0 rwkw @ 7100 rpm

Jet-33 - R33 GTStApexi S-AFC, Blitz Access ECU, Blitz BOV, 3" zorst, POD, Turbosmart boost controller @ 14psi peak holds 11 psi

179.9 rwkw @ 6900 rpm

RUS - R33 GTSt Mods ???

183.2 rwkw @ 6800 rpm

TUFR33

MUCK

riggaP

Adzmax - R33 GTSt Mods ??

164.9 rwkw @ 6700 rpm

INASNT - 400rwkw Supra, apprently INASNT was 'having us on' and couldn't deliver :D

DJ_L3ThAL - R33 GTSt, SAFCII, Boost, leaking BOV (now fixed), possible faulty coil pack also

162.4 rwkw @ 7000 rpm

Jamezilla

Adz - My old R32, unfortunately he slept in :P

Matty - R32 GTSt, who also 'slept in'

R31Nismoid - Unfortunately when fitting a boost controller I discovered the R31 had a faulty fuel pump which will be replaced shortly.... expect some big numbers soon

Al - R33 GTST, Wolf 3D ECU, 12 psi boost

172.4 rwkw @ 6400 rpm

R32PWR - Mental R32 GTSt RB27 with twin HKS 2835R's, unfortunately during "testing" on the previous thursday night full boost in second managed to snap the RHS axle... But beware....

Ronin 09

RedlineGTR

Meggala - R32 GTST, Pod, Zorst, 14 psi Boost, Dr_Drift ECU

148.0 rwkw @ 6800 rpm

Ben from BMT - 180SX, SR20, Dr_Drift ECU (not tuned yet), 17 psi boost peak holding 12 psi, FMIC, zorst, filter

155.3 rwkw @ 6000 rpm

Mutex - Stock as a Rock R34 GTT

161.1 rwkw @ 7000 rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13156-dyno-results-29303/
Share on other sites

ooooooo i c.

1fitty! hmmmm.. damn it i want an extra 8rwkw!

can u ask benny it will be for stainless 3" dump and front pipe?

im thinking of not bothering with the cooler just yet and get these bits done first.

Thanks again Doc!

One thing has got me curious though: did the guys keep turning off the TCS after each restart of engine?

TCS always comes back on after ignition / engine shutdown!

Perhaps this explains why increased boost and also using your BV didnt make a difference?

I only turned off TCS the first time...

Originally posted by nismoR34

Thanks again Doc!

One thing has got me curious though: did the guys keep turning off the TCS after each restart of engine?

TCS always comes back on after ignition / engine shutdown!

Perhaps this explains why increased boost and also using your BV didnt make a difference?

I only turned off TCS the first time...

Don't really know actually?? I'm pretty sure they didn't turn it off after restart.... hmmmm that will have to be an experiment for my new dyno??

Sounds like a plan to me :(

What brand dyno is it? Locality [near Essendon or ?]?

I am pretty keen - though I am not expecting to get much more than 182 in current form... I will probably wait until after I have done some mods. Looking at finishing off exhaust soon.

It's a Dyno Logic, I've researched thoroughly and believe this is a much better product, and has many more features than the more common Dyno Dynamics. The new premesis will be in Heidelburg.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...