Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Or Jun Cam Gears? (scratch That I Ordered Tomei's)


Recommended Posts

Just buy them anyway & use the extra few hp to your advantage.

Mind you at 63 seconds for the short track, can I suggest some tyre & suspension work first?

Agreed! Suspension setup before power for the track. + driver mods too.

What do mean 'just buy them'? Can I use them with the Poncams later?

Damn you lot, I havent the money for this handling stuff :P

I will get Sydneykids Bilstein kit and Nismo front and rear swaybars and strut braces when I have the money. And if I scrap my idea of getting the Do Luck kit, I could get all that handling stuff very soon.

No they don't. But the lobe centres on the cam are different to the Nissan ones.

To change the timing belt you have to take the water pump out. Given how cheap they are it is one of those may as well do it jobs.

You dont have to take out the pump to change the timing belt,although its easier when everythings off..

Topaz have you ever changed a timing belt?

If you haven't got the proper tools I'd just let Ken do it for you :P

Topaz have you ever changed a timing belt?

If you haven't got the proper tools I'd just let Ken do it for you :P

My dad has done it many times before (he's also a Fitter/Turner by trade) and he thinks we don't need a timing light :P

Everyone else thinks for RB engines to use a timing light!

Ok guys here is the deal HKS cam gears only have a 3 bolt locking system for the adjustment and they tend to wear out on the tooth section from the cam belt alot faster than any other cam gears on the market.

As a rule i use Tomie cam gears because they have a 4 bolt system and sometimes a 5 bolt system for locking they adjustment up on some vehicles. This is extreemly important at high revs as we all no what happens if your cams move at 8000rpm's...... big damage to your engine. Tomie also have the better of the durilium manufacturing and in my experience seem to last alot longer than its competitors...

At the end of the day its personal choice but i hope that some of this helps in your decisison.

Take care and good luck.

yeah thats some good info, but my question can u make more power by just changing cams? or are they only good when coupled with other mods?

Yes, should give you a decent power gain even with a relatively stock car. I know poncams, HKS step 1 etcs are usually designed so that they can be run with a stock computer and give a decent gain.

My dad has done it many times before (he's also a Fitter/Turner by trade) and he thinks we don't need a timing light :P

Everyone else thinks for RB engines to use a timing light!

I did my own timing belt, and for the price of a new engine over a timing light guess which one I'd choose.

P.S. Do please do your water pump at the same time, for 140bux or whatever they are it's well worth it. My Water pump died, so I did my timing belt (again) for the extra money.

Yes, should give you a decent power gain even with a relatively stock car. I know poncams, HKS step 1 etcs are usually designed so that they can be run with a stock computer and give a decent gain.

designed to run on stock ecu map ------> no

gain power on stock ecu? -------> no

will plugs foul very quickly using standard ecu and these cams ------> yes

will fuel ecconomy be crap using standard ecu -------> yes

Should I get a power FC first ---------> yes

Also on the HKS cam gear wearing out myth. How many worn out HKS cam gears has anyone seen, can we count 30? if not its not even statistically valid. I say nothing wrong with them in fact they are alot easier to adjust than the tomie ones too, I've had both I'd personally buy the HKS ones or something similar next time round (2c)

If you are thinking about new cams at any stage you can give the adustable pulleys a miss as the Poncams (To use but one example) have different centres to the stock items & you don't get such a gain from playing around with them.

Sorry disagree about the poncams not benifiting 'greatly' from being able to alter the cam timing with adjustable gears.Along with many others I have experienced the benifit of doing so on both stock and group A turbos on the RB26.

In partnership with adjustments to the timing and fuel maps changes can be made to the power curve and boost response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...