Comment Please

[tacker]

Have just done the first test session on semis i felt the car was a little loose in the back end any ideas on how to best make it stick just a little more.

I think that the spring rating maybe just a bit to firm and is picking up the inside rear enough to allow to brake traction.

Any comments will be well recieved. And i will pass the 997 turbo next time i swear.

regards

[Sydneykid]

Have just done the first test session on semis i felt the car was a little loose in the back end any ideas on how to best make it stick just a little more.

I think that the spring rating maybe just a bit to firm and is picking up the inside rear enough to allow to brake traction.

Any comments will be well recieved. And i will pass the 997 turbo next time i swear.

regards

I need to know a few details before I can really make any meaningful suggestions;

1. Spring rates?

2. Shock brand?

3. Stabiliser bar size?

4. Stabiliser bar settings, if adjustable?

5. Wheel alignment settings?

6. HICAS or not?

7. Engine power?

8. LSD type and condition

That'll do for a start.

cheers

[r33_racer]

we know hes running re55's hard compound.

yes im psychic

[T04GTR]

hmmmm

[T04GTR]

i love how people seem to think hard is better for the trackl

not having a go, but the number of people who go ..yep il just put the teins up to full hard and sik mate ..

[T04GTR]

from the sound of it. you need to soften up the rear.

or just toe the rear close to almost no toe in. and toe out the front 2mm each side

[tacker]

I need to know a few details before I can really make any meaningful suggestions;

1. Spring rates?

2. Shock brand?

3. Stabiliser bar size?

4. Stabiliser bar settings, if adjustable?

5. Wheel alignment settings?

6. HICAS or not?

7. Engine power?

8. LSD type and condition

That'll do for a start.

cheers

Ok in answer to the replies yes i think the rear is far to hard and the spring rate will need to be lowered but i will follow due course as you guys have years more experience with these cars.

1. Hard, thats all i know they were on the car when purchased or rescued from scrap yard is a better term.

2. Ohlins all round non adjustable

3. standard front and back

4. N/A

5. Neutral toe settings front and rear, and 1mm neg camber on front and back and no caster adjust as standard items used.

6. Lock bar in use removed the HICAS

7. about 400 hp at fly guess though but would be close.

8. I dont know to be honest be i would assume factory.

Also i need to mention i am running semi's as mentioned but the car was not handle like this on the track day i ran a few months ago. I have installed a 7 point cage ( as mention in another forum ) could this have stiffened the car?

Edited August 26, 2006 by tacker

[Duncan]

As well as the spring rates, you might want to experiment with different turn in points (try later compared to other cars) and get an attesa controller and dial in more front drive than standard (they are pretty taily stock, later models addressed this with more front drive to some extent)

[tacker]

Ok i should have been a bit more imformative with my request.

Car was good coming out of corners as there are only 2 second gear corners the rest are either 3rd or one very quick 4th. The car was turning in well but would become loose in the rear mid corner with a nice consistant throttle and not just pushing it straight to the floor. And this was a constant right through out the 4 x 20 minute sessions no matter what lines i tried. I am sure it is either the swaybar or springs or even both. As it was the car was nice and consistant it just needed a bit more rear traction and it would be a much better car to push around a track.

Regards

[Sydneykid]

Ok in answer to the replies yes i think the rear is far to hard and the spring rate will need to be lowered but i will follow due course as you guys have years more experience with these cars.

1. Hard, thats all i know they were on the car when purchased or rescued from scrap yard is a better term.

2. Ohlins all round non adjustable

3. standard front and back

4. N/A

5. Neutral toe settings front and rear, and 1mm neg camber on front and back and no caster adjust as standard items used.

6. Lock bar in use removed the HICAS

7. about 400 hp at fly guess though but would be close.

8. I dont know to be honest be i would assume factory.

Also i need to mention i am running semi's as mentioned but the car was not handle like this on the track day i ran a few months ago. I have installed a 7 point cage ( as mention in another forum ) could this have stiffened the car?

Suggestions follow;

1. You really need to know the spring rates, this thread shows you how to get the dimensions, then send them to me and I will work out the spring rartes for you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

2. I have never seen non adjustable Ohlins. Are you sure they are Ohlins? Are you sure that they are non adjustable? No knobs or allen key adjusters on the shock tops?

3 & 4. For regular circuit work you really should look at upgrading to adjustable stabiliser bars, that will enable you to tune the handling balance

5. For regular circuit work you really need around 2.5 to 4.0 degrees negative camber at the front and 1.0 to 2.0 negative camber at the rear. More caster (than standard) is even more essential, do yourself a favour and spend ~$120 and get a caster adjusting kit.

6. Good move

7. That's enough to get some power oversteer

8. OK

On to your observations. For mid corner oversteer, my first guess is the rear spring rate is too high, not unusual for a Japanese kit. Hence why you need to spend a few minutes and get those coil spring dimensions. If you had adjustable stabiliser bars you could have wound on a bit more front bar, that would have overcome the oversteer. Or wound off the rear bar, if it wasn't already at its softest setting.

You could try a little rear toe in, say 2 mm. That will help with the midcorner oversteer, but the downside might be poorer turn in response. It's simply a matter of trying it.

For driving technique, I would try a slightly slower corner entry and then use a little power at mid corner. This gives the front wheels a little torque which tends to pull the car straight. Not large lump of throttle, just a progressive squeeze, which will them give you a higher entry speed to the next straight.

Hope that has been of some help

cheers

Edited August 26, 2006 by Sydneykid

[tacker]

Cheers SK,

I am just about to get on a plane for Angola ( Lucky huh ) but i will do as you say as soon as i get back into Dubai.

I have read your thread on the sprind rates and i will post them to you ASAP. The shocks are ohlins but i will have to check the allen key bit.

Angain thanks for the help and i will order the castor adjust kit.

Regards