Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I would like to buy a crate engine from japan (Mines Nur spec) and would like to know how I could do this considering that I'm in Aust. and the engine's in Japan. Is there an agent, if so who and what are the costs?

BTW has anyone ever purchased a crate engine from Mines and shipped it to Oz?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131987-agents-in-japan/
Share on other sites

Theres 2 stages of Mines complete RB26DETT engines you can choose from:

Stage 1 with R34 GT-R N1 turbos: $15,375

Stage 2 with GT2530 turbos: $21,288

Seriously, dropping that kind of money on Mines and they'll sort out the shipping for you, it's up to you to negotiate a cheap rate... but you're getting reamed for the engine so what's an extra $1000 or two for shipping.

Edit: just saw sewid's post, so if you want to get someone else to organise it for you then discard what I posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131987-agents-in-japan/#findComment-2444144
Share on other sites

While I would love a crate engine, the cost of one is hard to justify for me compared against what I could have built here.

Anyway, you could also try Just Jap, they ship something like 400 containers yearly, and Steve is in Japan every other month so they might be able to assist if Mines cant organise everything for you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131987-agents-in-japan/#findComment-2444150
Share on other sites

I can most definitely arrange the engine and freight for you. I am based on the Gold Coast too, so you would save freight internally within Australia.

Ok thanks mate, I will be in touch with you.

BTW REZZ, are you sure that Mines stage 1 and 2 come with turbos, as I was looking at this too but was told that only block and head were supplied.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131987-agents-in-japan/#findComment-2447981
Share on other sites

BTW REZZ, are you sure that Mines stage 1 and 2 come with turbos, as I was looking at this too but was told that only block and head were supplied.

I'm not sure really, I just read their Japanese homepage (which doesn't specifically say 'without turbos') and they've got a corresponding pic of a Mines complete engine out of car with two turbos hanging off (a la Tomei complete engine).

Usually omitting turbos or other critical part they tell you so up front, but I could be wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131987-agents-in-japan/#findComment-2448608
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...