Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alex, I despise Bendix. Dusty and spongy. RB74 from Racebrakes for the street and some fun stuff.

Marcus, they will never fit under the 16's from my GTSt. Just drop them off to me..... :rofl: Actually I might need them sometime, so let me know the progress report on the car.

Jack, haven't forgotten me have you mate? Cheers

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

By performance are you allowing for consistancy? I agree with what you are saying with the std calipers, but the rotors? GTRs are a big heavy car with a good turn of grunt.

And thinking logically there has to be something to the fact that Nissan gave the R32 V-Spec 324mm rotors. The only real difference in caliper is the step up to differential sized pistons, bot the piston area wasnt overly different. The fact that the R33 and R34 uses 324mm rotors, the N1 GTRs use 324mm rotors etc etc

Well i think thats a decent indicator that even Nissan think the original R32 brakes were a little underdone, whilst the 324 rotors with Brembos is good enough for the cars they hoped would be competitive in Production Racing

So dont think the R32 GTR brakes can do a great job even with good pads etc, do the job yes, but shoudl be pretty high up on the list of things to do if you want to enjoy and go quick at the track. Of course if you only need three laps at a time...i will change my tune

I see your point, I guess my problem is my cars always handle well and, on the handling to power ratio, my leaning is always towards the handling side of the equation. Plus maybe I drive around the corners faster than the average GTR driver, although that might be a bit presumptuous

My personal experience has been that a 300rwkw R32GTR with standard callipers, braided lines, removed backers, fresh Castrol brake fluid, DBA 4000 series slotted rotors and Hawke HT10 pads has sufficient braking capacity to lock up (on demand ) 245/45/17 Yokohama A032R’s. This performance can be sustained for 5-6 flat out laps of Oran Park and 9-10 laps of Eastern Creek. By that stage the tyres are rooted (overheated) and have much more of an effect on the braking performance than the brakes themselves.

It is quite likely that a 500 rwkw GTR on full slicks, with not so good suspension and a G force averse driver would not find the same brake hardware up to scratch. However my suggestion then would be not to spend the money on brakes, but on better suspension and some circuit race driving lessons. I personally feel that the lap times would be vastly superior for the same $ spend.

:P cheers :)

Well they have just finished fitting the brakes and we have taken it for quick test drive, it is a little hard to judge as brakes are not properly bedded in yet, but tryed a few hard stops from around 160kmh in a new industrial estate out the back of my work (again not ideal), but yes it certainly pulls up quickly, only locks the front tyre for a split second as speed slows to around 60kmh then ABS kicks in.

Does it pull up quicker than before....?.......first impressions seem to suggest it does if only cause I was feeling a little light headed after the hard braking due to the De-accelaration!..never really felt that before....still that could also be attributed to the excessive coffee I drink at work! :O

Brakes were a 'pure' bolt on so very easy to install.

Its actually taking them longer to fit the Sparco seats as the factory GTR seats incorporate the runner as part of the seat base, it cannot be removed, and I was hoping to use these in conjunction with a modified bracket to fit the Sparcos....

In regards to the seat, measure the base, and if not too wide you'll probably get away with using Bride rails. It's an easy option, and will sit you lower.

PS I'm gonna need some photo's of the brakes on the car... and some time alone... :O

Alex, I despise Bendix. Dusty and spongy. RB74 from Racebrakes for the street and some fun stuff.

Marcus, they will never fit under the 16's from my GTSt. Just drop them off to me..... ;) Actually I might need them sometime, so let me know the progress report on the car.

Jack, haven't forgotten me have you mate? Cheers

will let you know Geoff - it's getting there... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...