Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well guys i have a tock standard 260rs with a dtop in replacement K7N and a full 3" echaust fitted.

i ran with a few 98 rons and founf mobil to be the most powerful , bp smoother and sheel the worse of the lot. ALthough i miced once optimax with extreme once and theres a lot of difference only 10 ltrs to the tank i added with the extreme.

Since Sk said and proved that theres no problem running on extreme then how about running on United? Anubody test it long term @ 10 or 15% ethanol? Cos it sounds very cheap. Ectreme costs about 1.59+ i think. Im very tempted to try the United one.

heres is the link to see where its available in whole Oz

http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/distribu...8-locations.asp

Edited by stasis

I just had a fiddle with Uniteds Boost98 E10 pulp.

Not all that happy with it to be honest. knock levels are down and it allows more timing to be dialed in but it just doesn't seem to have the same top end as the usual BP 98.

Maybe its going a tad lean but if that were the case I would expect it to detonate which its not. hrmm

Best not too fiddle as its strange, off for a power run it goes.

Really doesn't bother me to be honest. I don't plan on running the united boost98.

Optimax Extreme I believe will be fine.

I have heard reported in the media issues with ethanol and engine corrosion and its effect on metal parts. What steps are you taking to protect my engine and its components?

The issues you have heard about relate to a situation in 2003 when some retailers were selling fuel products with more than 20% ethanol blend without sufficient disclosure to customers. Shell was not involved in this practice and took active steps at the time to promote that our fuel did not contain ethanol. It has now been shown through extensive testing and research that a maximum 10% ethanol content is suitable for many cars which is why the Federal Government has set a maximum 10% ethanol content in Australian fuel. Shell has determined that a formulation of 5% ethanol optimises Shell Optimax Extreme (the same level that Governments in Europe are encouraging in their specification). All ethanol used in Shell fuel contains a suitable corrosion inhibitor.

I will be ripping out the fuel pump (shows up there first) 3 months after I start using the fuel to ensure there is no corrosion. If not then another 3months and if not then another.

I tried United Boost 98, 3 days ago and although it drives smoother (ie when revving at 4k rpm it feels like 3k rpm), it massively loses power ( on a BNR32), I mean its noticeable!!.

One thing i noticed beacause i overfilled with boost, that it left a yellowish oily trail, which went like glucose overnite, and couldnt be cleaned with water, but with soap.

I too noticed Boost98 was smoother and appeared to have more part throttle acceleration, however top end suffered. Do remember to make use of this fuel the car needs to be tuned to suit as it leans the car out.

I richened up mine by 1 point which should have brought it back to 12:1 and dialed in more ign until I saw det but it still just didn't feel the same in the top end as the origional setup with BP 98.

So for me.. Its bp98 until Optimax Extreme heads my way.

I must also mention my external bosch fuel pump in hot weather usually develops a loud buzzing fuel sucking type noise. It can only be heard on the out side of the car.

Well... Since I dropped this Boost98 stuff in even in cold weather it has constantly had this noise. I used the Boost98 up, dropped in BP 98 and instantly the Bosch pump was quiet and has stayed quiet all the way home.

Interesting.

I too noticed Boost98 was smoother and appeared to have more part throttle acceleration, however top end suffered. Do remember to make use of this fuel the car needs to be tuned to suit as it leans the car out.

I richened up mine by 1 point which should have brought it back to 12:1 and dialed in more ign until I saw det but it still just didn't feel the same in the top end as the origional setup with BP 98.

So for me.. Its bp98 until Optimax Extreme heads my way.

I must also mention my external bosch fuel pump in hot weather usually develops a loud buzzing fuel sucking type noise. It can only be heard on the out side of the car.

Well... Since I dropped this Boost98 stuff in even in cold weather it has constantly had this noise. I used the Boost98 up, dropped in BP 98 and instantly the Bosch pump was quiet and has stayed quiet all the way home.

Interesting.

I have use optimax extreme and its 10 cents more expensive than optimax itself. Long term in terms of affordability its very expensive.

That why i was so interested in the United boost 98 get it tuned to match it and it will save long run. Thats just my theory anyway. But optimax xtreme is damn expensive.

I have use optimax extreme and its 10 cents more expensive than optimax itself. Long term in terms of affordability its very expensive.

That why i was so interested in the United boost 98 get it tuned to match it and it will save long run. Thats just my theory anyway. But optimax xtreme is damn expensive.

I'm just not sure I can put up with the fuel pump sound that the BOOST98 causes. :)

I've now got BP98 in it and the fuel pump (external Bosch) has gone silent again.

Its a strange finding but most likely due to myself not throwing the car on the dyno, richening up the afr and dialing more ign. in on the usual boost level saw no noticable improvement. However simply dialing up the boost did. There was no knock on Boost98 and the car felt strong. Drop BP98 back in to it and it began detonating.

So Boost98 does appear to have an advantage over the BP98. It simply needs to be tuned to suit, there is no point even trying to fiddle myself on the street without a wideband.

But yer.. Not sure I could put up with the fuel pump noise from Boost98. :laugh:

I'm just not sure I can put up with the fuel pump sound that the BOOST98 causes. :)

I've now got BP98 in it and the fuel pump (external Bosch) has gone silent again.

Its a strange finding but most likely due to myself not throwing the car on the dyno, richening up the afr and dialing more ign. in on the usual boost level saw no noticable improvement. However simply dialing up the boost did. There was no knock on Boost98 and the car felt strong. Drop BP98 back in to it and it began detonating.

So Boost98 does appear to have an advantage over the BP98. It simply needs to be tuned to suit, there is no point even trying to fiddle myself on the street without a wideband.

But yer.. Not sure I could put up with the fuel pump noise from Boost98. :laugh:

Other than your fuel pump noise no other problems? Does anybody used boost 98 before on a long term? Can we set 2 different settings with the power Fc using the hand controller than? Switching to different mao when using different fuels.

^ OK well if you're gonna be that specific about fuels, I'd call that semi-PULP fuel if i was being pedantic.

But either way, the original statement made by Rosie_1008 is still wrong according to SydneyKid's knowledge - throughout the thread he has informed us of the different fuel companies who share their 98RON fuels, and which fuel comes from where and whos refinery.

the only problem is that apparantly ethanol can bond to H20 - thats why there was a stink about it when it was first being used coz obviously water and pistons dont mix.

however i think its unlikely to actually get enough water into your engine to do instant damage but i think the whole point is that it "can" do damage over time... who knows if it actually does... i mean most of us use high flow air filters that prolly let in just as much crap and water vapour anyway.

dude why do people put water injection systems in there car to help with inlet temperetures.... an awfull lot of supercharged cars an now quite a few turbo'ed run a water injection system on the pressure side cant see its gonna hurt the pistons when you have a exploding fireball next to it... gonna dissapate preety quick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...